Epinephrine: "Send It!" and Retro-Bolt It!

I first observed that someone had written the words "Send It!" in huge chalk letters on the second chimney pitch when I climbed the route on October 14th. Yesterday I climbed it again and saw that the writing is still there, and this time I also noticed chalk arrows in several places indicating the direction the route goes, as well as the word "Anchor" (again written in huge letters) halfway up the last technical pitch of the route (ironically this is not even a logical or conventional location for a belay but at least someone attempted to brush this off). This is inappropriate and, in my opinion, vandalism.

Unfortunately, it doesn't stop there. There is now a retro-bolted anchor at the top of the second pitch on a ledge out right, and there is another retro-bolted anchor at the top of the technical climbing at the start of the long, rambling ramp. While I find these anchors convenient, retro-bolting is generally inappropriate. Sadly, both these anchors are not stainless steel and both are located inexplicably low, forcing one to hunch over to belay. If you're going to bolt something - let alone retro-bolt one of the most amazing, popular, and classic climbs in the country - at least do it right.

And last, but certainly not least, since everyone who knows me knows how I like to rant about human excrement at the base of Epinephrine, I would be remiss to squander another opportunity to mention that people continue to take a dump in this otherwise pristine and beautiful narrow wash deep in Black Velvet Canyon.

I'd really like to give people the benefit of the doubt and assume that they are not outright jerks and just might not know better or are suspending their better judgement during a moment of impulsivity, so, while I suspect this message will only be read by Mountain Project regulars, on the off chance that it will reach just one person and help them improve their strategies, I want to offer some suggestions:

With regards to chalk messages for route-finding and encouragement: I suggest reading guidebook descriptions and studying topos instead. Also, communicating with your partners using spoken words, rather than written notes, is just as effective and doesn't leave a trace. I know Epinephrine is a big deal and exciting and an unbelievable rock climb, but without rain in the desert, these chalk messages stay on the walls for a long time (in this case at least a month and possibly much longer) and other climbers don't want to see this.

With regards to the retro-bolting: It is a mystery to me who would do this. I can only assume it was a local and quite possibly a guide - who else would bother bringing a bolting kit up a route like Epi? Certainly not a visiting climber doing this route for the first time. If you're out there reading this message, please get in touch with me. I don't want to "out" you or cause trouble, I genuinely want to figure out a solution or alternative and to help implement this solution (preferably before I go up and remove/patch these holes). But generally speaking (as I already mentioned), I don't think retro-bolting without at least discussing it with some other locals is appropriate. At the very least these anchors should be stainless and their placement more carefully considered.

And finally... the poop: Look, I get that it is often hard to do your business in the morning especially if you somehow neglect to fuel yourself properly with plenty of coffee prior to an early start on a big route like this. I also get that sometimes hiking to the base, combined with nerves and the weight of a heavy rack pulling your harness into your bowels, can loosen things up. But if you have to go at the base of Epinephrine the thing to do is to use a wag bag.

I know that no one wants to carry a used wag bag up a 2000' route with multiple pitches of chimneys and that sometimes the wag bag dispenser at the trailhead is empty, but really you should have one in your pack at all times and definitely bring one if you're climbing Epi. Using an extra ziplock to double-bag will give you peace of mind and thoroughly mixing the chemical powder in your kit with your waste and squeezing all the air out will minimize both the odor and size of your package. I've carried used wag bags up Epinephrine several times using these techniques and have never had a problem with them breaking or smelling. And even if there was a malfunction, it would make for an epic story and a great laugh over beers that night... far better than being "that guy" who selfishly fouled this completely sublime canyon.

Ideally you wouldn't arrive at the base of a route like this without your belay device or other essential piece of gear and a wag bag should be one of those items. But let's say you do... Just like you could potentially belay with a Muenter Hitch, there are some other less-ideal solutions to forgetting your wag bag. Consider holding it and doing your business somewhere on the massive summit plateaus. Here, at least, you can easily walk far from the places other people visit. Or, consider hiking back out to do your business. Don't go further up the canyon (this is actually worse as the canyon only gets more beautiful and narrow the further you go and many popular routes begin up canyon from Epi), and don't go on the big terrace beneath the Black Velvet Wall. At the very least, hike back out to the wash and up a hillside where you can dig a proper cat hole... Really, what you should do, is just remember to bring a wag bag.

Please, be psyched, climb Epinephrine, "send it", and if you left this climb as you found it - or even better than you found it - you rock!

Vegas "guides" strike again!!!!!!!

In an attempt to keep this thread going...what kind of a sick fuck would add convenience anchors to Epi?!!?!! Is nothing sacred anymore???

Josh, I have not seen the anchors out right on the second pitch, but those ones at the top of the technical climbing have been there for about 9 months now. Memory could be failing me, but I think that set at the top of the technical climbing may have been added to aid in a rescue, but I could be wrong.

Wasn't sure what direction this was going to go but, hmmm....

What are the rules for drilling in RR?

Obnoxious chalk graffiti. Unacceptable. Inexcusable. 

And I 2nd the wag bag. It's easier than digging a good cat hole, and digging a cat hole isn't that hard in the first place. But wag bags are the only true LNT option. And you can get them FREE from a lot of places. 

Totally agree Josh.

I appreciate thoughtful posts like this. It feels good when the MP community can come together and agree. But we know the reality of the situation, and an MP thread is NOT going to be enough. As climbing becomes ever more popular (because its awesome! and Insta-barf...) people (many noobs included) are going to head out to Black Velvet for the send. It is a beautiful area and it is going to get used and abused over the next 5 years. More people will likely head out there in the next 5 years than have gone out there in the last 20. 

I don't have a great solution. But some ideas - bathroom. I know people will hate the idea of this, BUT its better than human shit at the base of the climb. Wagbag education sign. Wagbag reminder sign appealing to the pristine beauty of the canyon. 

Red Rock is an international climbing destination. People come from every corner of the globe to climb at RR. People who will only be there for one week of their whole life so the convenience of pooping at the base of somewhere they will never return outweighs carrying their poop. 

grog m aka Greg McKee wrote:

so the convenience of pooping at the base of somewhere they will never return outweighs carrying their poop. 

I'll second this as the most likely thing to happen.

Richard Shore wrote:

Tradiban - rules for drilling in RR are as follows:

1) Drill and tell no one. 

2) Post the route on MP, listing the FA as “unknown” and then claim the FFA. 

3) If anyone calls you out on your bogus illegal bolting, make sure you are a MP site Admin so you can delete their comments immediately.

I bet my post will be terminated before it gets a reply..

lol

          grog m aka Greg McKee                 ·         1 hour ago        ·                    Unknown Hometown                             · Joined Aug 2012            · Points: 70               

I appreciate thoughtful posts like this. It feels good when the MP community can come together and agree. But we know the reality of the situation, and an MP thread is NOT going to be enough. As climbing becomes ever more popular (because its awesome! and Insta-barf...) people (many noobs included) are going to head out to Black Velvet for the send. It is a beautiful area and it is going to get used and abused over the next 5 years. More people will likely head out there in the next 5 years than have gone out there in the last 20. 

I don't have a great solution. But some ideas - bathroom. I know people will hate the idea of this, BUT its better than human shit at the base of the climb. Wagbag education sign. Wagbag reminder sign appealing to the pristine beauty of the canyon.

Red Rock is an international climbing destination. People come from every corner of the globe to climb at RR. People who will only be there for one week of their whole life so the convenience of pooping at the base of somewhere they will never return outweighs carrying their poop. 

                                                                             0                                               

This is much needed ...not just for the climbers, but also for  the mtbers(heavy use at the mouth of the cyn) and hikers as well

There is a wag bag dispenser at the beginning of the hiking trail to Black Velvet Canyon, about 200 feet out of the parking lot. A sign was posted about two years ago at the parking lot with information. There is only so much education will do. I have carried three wag bags on different occasions up the entirety of Epinephrine, one was my own and the other two were left behind by others. Used wag-bags left behind on accident won't decrease with education because the reason it was left was just that, an accident. Unfortunately I feel the people who leave their bags behind on purpose won't change their actions with an increase in education, because improving their character as a human being needs a lot more effort than a sign. 

Those of us who are lucky enough to call ourselves 'locals' to Red Rock have the advantage of having access to this place more than anyone else. It also means we will see the negative more than anyone else, and I know Josh and other locals do more than anyone else in trying to create a positive environment for locals and visitors alike. I've said this in other posts, but being a local doesn't mean you deserve this place more than anyone else, it's National land, it is all of ours. But being a local does mean it's that much more rewarding/frustrating to see how this area is treated sometimes.

Richard Shore wrote:

Tradiban - rules for drilling in RR are as follows:

1) Drill and tell no one. 

2) Post the route on MP, listing the FA as “unknown” and then claim the FFA. 

3) If anyone calls you out on your bogus illegal bolting, make sure you are a MP site Admin so you can delete their comments immediately.

I bet my post will be terminated before it gets a reply..

I should have taken that bet! 

This is unfortunate. Thanks for your level-headed post Josh Janes. 

The climbing community can thank comments like Richard Shore’s for first ascentionists choosing to keep their new routes secret rather than sharing them with the greater community.

Richard Shore wrote:

Tradiban - rules for drilling in RR are as follows:

1) Drill and tell no one. 

2) Post the route on MP, listing the FA as “unknown” and then claim the FFA. 

3) If anyone calls you out on your bogus illegal bolting, make sure you are a MP site Admin so you can delete their comments immediately.

I bet my post will be terminated before it gets a reply..

Please tell us the story.

And what are the actual rules for bolting in RR?

Tradiban wrote:

And what are the actual rules for bolting in RR?

In the wilderness: No new bolts. Replacing existing bolts with a hand drill is OK.

Outside of the wilderness: Anything goes including power drills.

But maybe start a new thread if you want to discuss this further?

Josh Janes wrote:

In the wilderness: No new bolts. Replacing existing bolts with a hand drill is OK.

Outside of the wilderness: Anything goes including power drills.

But maybe start a new thread if you want to discuss this further?

Isn't this pertinent here? Maybe so and so didn't know the rules? What parts of RR is which?

The chalk graffiti is lame but temporary, these bolts are a slippery slope and it's concerning, so first we should determine if the bolting was legal then we can turn to the ethical arguments regarding adding anchors and bolts in RR. Then we can talk about how they were added and if it could have been done better.

Who is the authority on those subjects?

Tradiban wrote:

Isn't this pertinent here? Maybe so and so didn't know the rules? What parts of RR is which?

The chalk graffiti is lame but temporary, these bolts are a slippery slope and it's concerning, so first we should determine if the bolting was legal then we can turn to the ethical arguments regarding adding anchors and bolts in RR. Then we can talk about how they were added and if it could have been done better.

Who is the authority on those subjects?

BigB wrote:

Ha! I'm actually serious. Serious about bringing attention to this thread and the bullshit some asshole did to Epi.

My point is that if this person only broke social rules then the approach to solving the problem is different than if they broke legal rules.

Bitching on MP can only get us so far.