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New Ice Climbing Set-Up

Jason4Too · · Bellingham, Washington · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I have a pile of crampons in my gear room, my newest are Petzl Sarkens and that's what I've used exclusively since I got them.  I know they aren't exactly what you're looking at for steep ice but the reason I prefer them might be pertinent.  I can get a decent fit on some of my boots with wire bails but I get the best fit on my boots with the Petzl plastic basket.  The toes don't wiggle at all on either my Charmoz or my Nepals.  I also have BD Sabretooth's and Contacts, Grivel G14s and G12s, CAMP 390s or whatever the full auto aluminum 'pon is.  I really should sell everything but the Sarkens and the CAMPS.  My wife has also had good luck with the fit of the Sarken with the plastic baskets on her Nepals in a size 6.  It's the first 12 point crampon that she's had any luck with.

If I had your use cases (and mostly do but in reverse, much more glacier travel in my life than steep ice) I'd buy into the Petzl system again.  I'd buy the primary crampon of choice complete, probably the Lynx or Dart, and then buy an extra toe piece for glacier use, probably the Irvis or Sarken or maybe even the aluminum toe (leopard?) if you're just walking.  This gives you the flexibility of a quiver without the cost and great toe baskets.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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