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Looking for comparable climbing area


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Greg Egbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

I just spent the weekend at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas and absolutely loved it. It was cold at night, but the days were perfect for climbing. My favorite part was it kept us busy with lots of moderate climbing on unique rock with a few challenging routes thrown in for fun.

Anyone have any suggestions for other areas in the US that are similar? 

grog m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Moab/Entire Utah Desert. Red Rock. Jtree.

B-Mkll Mackall · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 1,723

Red Rocks in any season except Summer! Ten Sleep Canyon, WY or Spearfish Canyon, SD (both trend .10 and up). New River and Red River Gorges (both can be cold in winter but fall/spring are generally perfecto)


Greg Egbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0
B-Mkll Mackall wrote:

Red Rocks in any season except Summer! Ten Sleep Canyon, WY or Spearfish Canyon, SD (both trend .10 and up). New River and Red River Gorges (both can be cold in winter but fall/spring are generally perfecto)


I drove through Ten Sleep last summer. Unfortunately, I was just passing through. It looked amazing.

Dan Cooksey · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365

G Egbert, WHere are you from?  Might help narrow down some crags near you.

Jameson Young · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

You should look into the Obed in TN... we typically have mild winters, the biggest concern weather wise is rain,  last year it was 65 and sunny on Christmas day. South clear creek would mostly be in the sun so it wouldn't be terribly cold.  It offers a lot of moderate sport climbing. There is also the T wall and basically all of the chattanooga area too.

Alexander Stathis · · Athens, GA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 267
G Egbert wrote:

I just spent the weekend at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas and absolutely loved it. It was cold at night, but the days were perfect for climbing. My favorite part was it kept us busy with lots of moderate climbing on unique rock with a few challenging routes thrown in for fun.

Anyone have any suggestions for other areas in the US that are similar? 

So... you're in the market for decent weather and outdoor climbing? Have you looked at the Red River Gorge?

Greg Egbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0
Alexander Stathis wrote:

So... you're in the market for decent weather and outdoor climbing? Have you looked at the Red River Gorge?

Yes, I am from Minnesota, but weather is not really important as I am looking for places to climb year round. The main thing I am looking for is an area that has a large number of moderate climbs with easy approaches on unique rock. Horseshoe Canyon was great because it was easy to tick off a lot of sport climbs in a short period of time and the rock was hard sandstone with lots of unique features - pockets, chicken heads, etc. 

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 484
G Egbert wrote:

Yes, I am from Minnesota, but weather is not really important as I am looking for places to climb year round. The main thing I am looking for is an area that has a large number of moderate climbs with easy approaches on unique rock. Horseshoe Canyon was great because it was easy to tick off a lot of sport climbs in a short period of time and the rock was hard sandstone with lots of unique features - pockets, chicken heads, etc. 

That set of criteria fits a whole hell of a lot of areas all over the US. If you want us to narrow it down for you, you gotta be more specific. What do you mean when you say "unique rock"? A lot of climbing in Chattanooga fits some of that criteria although depending on your definition of large quantity and "easy" approaches you might end up sacrificing one for the other at some crags. 

Acmesalute76 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 66

Congratulations, you've discovered climbing outdoors! Start traveling and chances are you won't be disappointed no matter where you go :)

Greg Egbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0
eli poss wrote:

That set of criteria fits a whole hell of a lot of areas all over the US. If you want us to narrow it down for you, you gotta be more specific. What do you mean when you say "unique rock"? A lot of climbing in Chattanooga fits some of that criteria although depending on your definition of large quantity and "easy" approaches you might end up sacrificing one for the other at some crags. 

400-500 routes (mainly sport)

large number of moderates

hikable from a central camping area

Greg Egbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0
Acmesalute76 wrote:

Congratulations, you've discovered climbing outdoors! Start traveling and chances are you won't be disappointed no matter where you go :)

I'm sure most places wouldn't disappoint in quality of climbing. I've been climbing outdoors for a few years now and my travel time is limited so I want to make the most of it. The trip to Horseshoe Canyon was 1400 miles round trip and we were able to get 40-50 climbs done in two days between my partner and I. 

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430

Go West young man.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 14,787
G Egbert wrote:

400-500 routes (mainly sport)

large number of moderates

? so you mean like two or three hundreds of 10s and easy 11s (with perhaps a handful of 9's or 8's as warmups)?
. . . perhaps also some 12s and hard 11s for challenge?

Eric Carlos · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 40

Shelf Road fits the bill.  So does Wild Iris

Greg Egbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0
kenr wrote:

? so you mean like two or three hundreds of 10s and easy 11s (with perhaps a handful of 9's or 8's as warmups)?
. . . perhaps also some 12s and hard 11s for challenge?

Even more moderates. Horseshoe Canyon has a couple hundred that are 10a or less. Yes to the 11s and 12s.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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