Mountain Project Logo

Testing with dynamic daisies


Original Post
Everett · · Nevada · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 25

For those with the Petzl Evolv (or other dynamic daisies), do you end caring that it's dynamic when bouncing in the ladder won't do?

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

No, they are short enough that the amount of stretch is negligible. I haven't had any issues with daisy testing, though I don't do it very often, usually ladder does enough.  

apoet · · AZ · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 161
Ryan Hamilton wrote:

No, they are short enough that the amount of stretch is negligible. I haven't had any issues with daisy testing, though I don't do it very often, usually ladder does enough.  

+1

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

Use your laddders. Don’t use a daisy.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Mark Hudon wrote:

Use your laddders. Don’t use a daisy.

Hi Mark, any chance of a little more flesh on that reply, or comments from those that daisy test more, please. I test with the ladders, but really only because that is how I started. Not because I know what I'm doing.


Kauait · · Sandy Utah · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Test with either. Stability is the key!

Or was it, Don't Fall ! ;)

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

If the piece you are testing is dead straight above you on a not overhanging wall, then it makes no difference. If the piece is off to the side and you are testing with a daisy, and the piece pulls, your weight will be directly under that piece and you will not be in position to catch yourself on your current piece.

I set myself up comfortably on my current piece, maybe have it right at my waist so I can grip it solidly with my hand, equalize my weight between the two pieces, an aider on each piece, and then bounce the hell out of the piece. I bounce like I WANT the piece to pull! If I’m successful and it pulls, I’m already balanced and set up to catch myself with my hand and other leg.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Post a Reply to "Testing with dynamic daisies"

Log In to Reply