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St. Vrain FAs?


Original Post
mckenzie lee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Looking for a climbing partner who’s down to put up FAs in st vrain canyon. None of my current climbing partners are strong enough to follow most of my leads. There’s mad potential in the vrain, need someone who’s stoked to unlock that shit!!!

Tyler Tworek · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 35

I'm INterested, but why have you only been a member since May? And what grades are you trying to put up? 

mckenzie lee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

I generally have always used MtnProject’s website to finding climbing areas, never really thought to get on the forum until recently. Probably 10s and low 11s on trad climbs. I’m really not picky on the grades, I’m always down to just be out enjoying climbing!

CrazyChemist · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 5

You should check this out if your'e going to be climbing in the St. Vrain canyon:


http://stores.sharpendbooks.com/rock-climbing-st-vrain-canyons/

Dankasaurus · · Lyons, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 85

Please think about low impact approaches.  Please ensure you're not doing FAs on previously climbed, but lichenous and runout, lines.


[edit: Mckenzie Lee is probably a troll.]

Mike McNeil · · Spearfish, South Dakota · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 1,525

Dankasaurus, how is the climbing up there?.  Driven through lots and have looked at a couple of routes but never climbed.  Looks to be more potential than Boulder Canyon. 


Max Supertramp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 65
mckenzie lee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Too late, I’ve already bathed my machete in the blood of innocent underbrush 

Max Supertramp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 65


ClimbandMine · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2001 · Points: 910

Meh, all that shit has already been climbed.

Norse Force · · Nederland, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0
Dankasaurus wrote:

Please think about low impact approaches.  Please ensure you're not doing FAs on previously climbed, but lichenous and runout, lines.


[edit: Mckenzie Lee is probably a troll.]

Had similar thoughts from OP. Also kinda glad my partners don’t call me out for being a lame punter on the proj.  

Dankasaurus · · Lyons, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 85
Mike McNeil wrote:

Dankasaurus, how is the climbing up there?.  Driven through lots and have looked at a couple of routes but never climbed.  Looks to be more potential than Boulder Canyon. 


Hello,


The Vrain is an acquired taste, it seems.  The granite is not as fine grained as Boulder Canyon's perfect stone, and is sometimes friable.  The fixed hardware is generally older, more sparse, and less well maintained than Boulder Canyon.  The routes are more adventurous for these reasons and because they're not climbed as much.  Also, the routes are more spread out than BoCan.

This time of year:

December Wall is great.   I recommend Life After James for engaging hard 10 climbing.  

Another good cold weather spot is the Upper Infirmary Slabs which have the megaclassic friction slab Panic in the Grey room.

A compact crag with a handful of great routes is the Monkey Skull which faces almost due west and can be OK during the afternoon even on short days, but watch out for the wind.

Good summer spots include:

- The relatively new and popular Coliseum which has a new tyro across the creek and has a BoCan feel of a bunch of moderate and safe mixed routes in close proximity.  The Arch of Titus is recommended too.  Compact with many varied routes.

- The Shadows / Wailing Wall with its funky approach and isolated feel and great views.

- Trojan Bunny Buttress:  Check out Pondemonium...classic spice start and then awesome friction.

- Area51 + Desdemona are two north facing crags that have a couple classic moderates on them...tag both in a day for a fun moderate outing.


LMK if you need more information.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

i always think of SSV has sort of being half way between the platte and BC, but with a shit ton of ticks in the spring time.  there are definitely some pretty cool crack lines up there.  i definitely miss getting the silo burger and a ten fidy at OB's afterwards!

Mike McNeil · · Spearfish, South Dakota · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 1,525

Thanks for the info.  Looks cool. Would like to check it out sometime. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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