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Tahoe 6" offwidths


Original Post
abandon moderation · · Tahoe · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 118

Anyone know where to find a good 5.9/5.10 OW around Tahoe that's 6 inches?


I've been running laps on a few good 5" ones but looking for something a bit wider to force new technique.

Ryan Pfleger · · North Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 15

How wide is the Crystal Bay boulder crack?

abandon moderation · · Tahoe · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 118
Ryan Pfleger wrote:

How wide is the Crystal Bay boulder crack?

It's about 5" at the top. Still ends up being butterflies or a hand fist stack for me.

Dancog · · Sin City · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 15

The Leap has a couple I think. Under the Big Top, Eeyore’s Enigma, Fat Merchant Crack at Sugarloaf. Up at Eagle Lake cliff is The Vulture and Buster Brown. 

abandon moderation · · Tahoe · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 118
Dancog wrote:

The Leap has a couple I think. Under the Big Top, Eeyore’s Enigma, Fat Merchant Crack at Sugarloaf. Up at Eagle Lake cliff is The Vulture and Buster Brown. 

Good list, thanks! The only one I've been on is Fat Merchant Crack, I'll check out the others.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

Eeyore's Enigma in my opinion is the best OW 5.10 at the Leap.  It will be different than most anything you have done.  Best done as a continuation/link up of Tombstone Terror (5.10c).

Warrior · · Rock City, GA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 310

If you are up at Eagle be sure to check out the aptly named Barney Rubble. It is about as "OW" as it gets for the grade in Tahoe from my poor memory.  Probably very dirty, can't imagine it is done much.  Those others are good too but more fist size iirc (again from spotty memory).

Haan Variation of DNF at the leap as well...5.9+ OW. Very airy and fun (if you like wide). Expect spider webs and lichen...

Theres also a good bit at Pie Shop, Shelobs Lair, Mad Wife, and I can't remember if it's P2 of Deliverance or Desiderata ( P1 is thin crack but you can scramble from the left directly to with wide iirc), Natural High- although that is more a roof than ow technically.  


Donner has some good pitches but more flare/chim like Rats Tooth/Black September/Bottomless Topless than what you are looking for....still good though. GLHF


abandon moderation · · Tahoe · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 118
Warrior wrote:

If you are up at Eagle be sure to check out the aptly named Barney Rubble. It is about as OW as it gets for the grade in Tahoe from my poor memory.  Probably very dirty, can't imagine it is done much.  Those others are good too but more fist size iirc (again from spotty memory).

Haan Variation of DNF at the leap as well...5.9+ OW. Very airy and fun.

Theres also a good bit at Pie Shop, Shelobs Lair, Mad Wife, and I can't remember if it's P2 of Deliverance or Desiderata ( P1 is thin crack), Natural High- although that is more a roof than ow technically.  


Black Wall at donner has some good pitches but more flare/chim like Rats Tooth/Black September/ than what you are looking for....still good though. GLHF


Cool, thanks! I've done a lot of the wide stuff at Black Wall, but I'll have to check out the pie shop with winter coming. I looked in the Reid guide and didn't find anything obviously wide.

It looks like a trip to Eagle Lake is in order before the snow comes.

abandon moderation · · Tahoe · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 118
Dow Williams wrote:

Eeyore's Enigma in my opinion is the best OW 5.10 at the Leap.  It will be different than most anything you have done.  Best done as a continuation/link up of Tombstone Terror (5.10c).

Haha, do I see a helmet left for the second?  

I'll have to check it out, looks cool!

Warrior · · Rock City, GA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 310
kendallt wrote:

Cool, thanks! I've done a lot of the wide stuff at Black Wall, but I'll have to check out the pie shop with winter coming. I looked in the Reid guide and didn't find anything obviously wide.

It looks like a trip to Eagle Lake is in order before the snow comes.

I think theres another one called Vanishing Point at Lovers that may be 6-8", but I haven't been on it. Pie Shop is a fine winter crag.


GizzardJones · · Rancho Cordova, CA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 385
Warrior · · Rock City, GA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 310

Speakin of Echo, Old Peculiar area is a great place for concentrated OW.


Old Peculiar .8

Yodeler .9

OW their Heads .9

Knee On .10b (not perfect offwidth but nice and awkward from my spotty memory)

GizzardJones · · Rancho Cordova, CA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 385

BUMP for the Old Peculiar area!!! worth the stomp out there! all those route's are amazing! 

DrewSmith · · Tahoe City, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Definitely check out self abuse at sugarloaf and Rick & Eric’s at snowshed. 

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,186

Self Abuse is no 5.10+. In Yosemite it might be rated 5.9. More of a squeeze than an OW. 

Rick and Eric’s only has a smidge of wide.

JO’s at Rainbow is fairly legit OW, 4”-6”. Dead vertical and without too much extraneous stuff to detract from the “fun”.

Dow’s rec of Tombstone to Eeyore’s makes not much sense outside of not-so-subtle spray.

abandon moderation · · Tahoe · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 118
GizzardJones wrote:

I'm back in Tahoe after getting thrashed by jtree offwidths, looking for more fun!

Eli . · · GMC3500 · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,199
kendallt wrote:

Got any suggestions on Woodfords? Planning to head there this weekend.

I found a picture of this beauty but not sure where in woodfords it's at just yet:

I'm back in Tahoe after getting thrashed by jtree offwidths, looking for more fun!

There's a squeeze chimney boulder problem at the leap that's worth running laps on.

abandon moderation · · Tahoe · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 118
Eli wrote:

There's a squeeze chimney boulder problem at the leap that's worth running laps on.

This one? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiAVM1JNtbk Looks dope, not sure about the guy is crimping his way up it though. I have no bouldering pad but I might have to get one for next year.

With the weather forecast being somewhat questionable I figure Woodfords has better chance of no rain/snow than the Leap this weekend

Eli . · · GMC3500 · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,199
kendallt wrote:

This one? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiAVM1JNtbk Looks dope, not sure about the guy is crimping his way up it though. I have no bouldering pad but I might have to get one for next year.

With the weather forecast being somewhat questionable I figure Woodfords has better chance of no rain/snow than the Leap this weekend

No, that one is insanely gnarly, I'm taking about the 5.10 squeeze chimney

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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