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Trip suggestions


Original Post
Nick Tallas · · Unknown Hometown · Joined 23 days ago · Points: 0

My girlfriend and I are planning on taking a trip in our van to wait out Canada’s winter (6 months). We are both beginner sport climbers (dont own a rack) and are looking to visit areas with more moderate multi pitch sport routes (max 5.10+) as well as visit new and interesting places. Keeping in mind that we live in a van so we will be confined to the southwestern states because of temps. Any must climb/see areas you guys could suggest?  Thanks! 

Dan Cooksey · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365

Being that you only sport climb Las Vegas stands out as the best option.  You could bounce around to bishop, Joshua Tree, Zion, Saint George etc.  you aren’t going to find a ton of multipitch sport in these areas, but a lot of single pitch.  If you have some extra scratch buy a trad rack, meet people and try to learn.  It will open up your options for future trips of this nature. Good luck and have fun. 

simplyput · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 60

Mexico.

MikePond · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 85

Potrero Chico? It's a long drive, but has excellent single pitch to very long multipitch sport climbs, and a fun hang with easy walking access to all the climbing.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 6

The only place I know of in North America with a concentration of multi-pitch sport climbing, and especially, multi-pitch moderate sport climbing is El Potrero Chico, Mexico.

You will find excellent sport-climbing elsewhere, you will find excellent multi-pitch trad elsewhere, you will find the occasional multi-pitch sport climb elsewhere, but not the concentration. 

 Also, it is a great place to spend the winter.

Idaho Bob · · McCall, ID · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 58

Ditto for El Potrero Chico.  Stop by Red Rock on your way.  A few good multi-pitch sport climbs (Man's Best Friend and Big Bad Wolf are two) and lots of good single pitches on the first and second pull-outs.

Kyle Elliott · · Everett, WA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 380

Mt. Lemmon in AZ has quite a few bolted moderate multi pitches. 

the schmuck · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 110

Again for Portrero, but Cochise, though mostly a trad destination, is also a good option with plenty of sport. 

Joe Prescott · · Fort Collins · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 20

Hit Vegas, Cochise, Lemon (a lot cooler temps sometimes), St George area (nice multipitch sport southwest of St George) and drive down to Mexico.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 6

Consider The Jungle Wall at EPC -- this wall is about 200m (600 ft) across the base.  Routes (all sport) include:

Jungle Fever, 5.10, 2pitches

Voodo Trance, 5.10d, 6 pitches

Stairway to Nowhere, 5.10d, 4 pitches

Las Chimuelas, 5.9, 3 pitches

Jungle Boy, 5.8, 2 pitches

Jungle Mountaneering, 5.10b, 4 pitches

Yankee Clipper, 5.10b, 13 pitches (or 5.12a 15 pitches - but usually climbed to the end of pitch 13)

Space Boyz, 5.10d, 11 pitches

Black Cat Bone, 5.10c, 9 pitches


Oh, and the approach from the road varies between belay P1 from your van, to, maybe, tops, 2 minutes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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