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Best Moderate Yosemite Climbs in crap weather?


Original Post
NatejWeber · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Im headed to the Valley on 11/4, and the forecast is less than ideal. However the trip is happening and I’m looking to make the most of it. What are the best areas/climbs to stick to when it’s a bit stormy?


thanks in advance,


Nate

Matt Miccioli · · Stanford, CA · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 70

Some of the routes at Chapel Wall stay dry during light rain.

NatejWeber · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Chockbock Chimney?

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 150
NatejWeber wrote:

Chockbock Chimney?

Looks loose and obscure according to the description on here. Likely wet. Guaranteed to be dry is The knobby wall. Short routes, very overhung. The storm looks to be sizeable. I wouldn't risk getting caught on a multipitch. 

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 617

Oh gosh, I looked at the forecast and it does look like crap.  Maybe the best option would be to go to one of the cliffs that is usually pretty hot and sunny, that may dry  after the rain stops, lead something easier and then have topropes on some harder things

I'm thinking about Pat and Jack Pinnacle.  The 5.8 route Nurdle is nice and sews up with gear.  If you stop at the top of the first pitch you can set up TRs on Sherri's crack and Knob Job.  On the right side of the cliff there are a couple of sport routes in the 5.8 range.  To the right of these is a really nice 5.9 crack and a 10a crack that I think share an anchor. If I recall the crux of the 5.9 was fingers, might be difficult to lead if wet. But possibly the anchor for these routes may be close enough to the sport routes to move right and set them up (can't remember exactly, I lead them but I know they were all right in the same place.)

Edited to say that setting topropes on Sherri's and knob job would require moving the anchor on one and setting a directional on the other. Normally these routes are pretty busy but with bad weather, you should have the cliff to yourself.

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 617

Another thing that comes to mind is to set up a TR on Short Circuit.  It's slightly overhanging, maybe would stay a bit dry?

Though by no means moderate, it's a great practice crack.  A few moves each of fist, hand, off fingers, thin fingers.  You could stay warm working that!

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 150
phylp wrote:

Another thing that comes to mind is to set up a TR on Short Circuit.  It's slightly overhanging, maybe would stay a bit dry?

Though by no means moderate, it's a great practice crack.  A few moves each of fist, hand, off fingers, thin fingers.  You could stay warm working that!

Short Circuit Chimney might stay dry-ish as well. (Bolted 10c stemming). 

I've climbed Generator Crack in a light rain before. Slightly overhanging with a bit of tree cover. 

NatejWeber · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks guys, great tip phylp. Golden Needles 5.8 might be a good bet?

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 617

I forgot about Golden Needles.  Only led it once, can't remember much about how the gear goes, except I do remember that it was the Spring and the Falls were roaring and it was noisy!  But from the comments here on MP it sounds like one you could gear it really well (I'm emphasizing gear because if the rock is a bit wet you surely wouldn't want to have any runouts, even if you would normally be comfortable on those).

Another thing to consider if the only safe thing to do is to toprope, is take a look at Five and Dime Cliff, also south facing.  Short approach to the top of the cliff from the road.  Couple of things you can set up to TR there.  

NatejWeber · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks Phylp! If you are ever in the PacNW, I’ll happily repay you with a belay

Ned · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10

I'm going to be "that guy", and say that climbing in the valley when the high is 39 and forecast is for 100% snow is probably not going to be the most fun. Prepare for cold, wet hiking instead. If you want to climb, you might be able to find dry stuff in the Bishop area (NOAA is showing high of ~60 and chance of showers). Just know that if you wait until the snow starts, Tioga will probably get closed, which makes a trip from the valley to Bishop much longer. Closer to the valley, you could try going to Jailhouse, but it will still be cold there and the warm up is 11d.

Cory Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 947

Drive out to Barstow, clip some bolts in the desert sun, and forget about Yosemite

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430
Matt Miccioli wrote:

Some of the routes at Chapel Wall stay dry during light rain.

lol...Chapel is done for the winter unless you like freezing temps and 100% shade all day.

Future reference: All that stuff that faces South and is miserable all summer long comes into condition now....generally climbable a day after the rain stops.

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 150

How'd it go?

NatejWeber · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

It was amazing weather actually. We decided to cruise up a very dry "After Six." It was a bit rainy in the morning, and then phenomenal

 all day with sunshine in the afternoon. Because of the threat of a winter storm, no other climbers were around and we had the whole park to ourselves which I have never in my life seen for Yosemite. Not even another car was on the road. We could not have gotten any luckier. Thanks all to the tips, I will keep those in my back pocket next time we decide to tempt fate, which is hopefully never. 
Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 793

My son has the attitude to always go check it out anyway. Forecasts are just that, forecasts. The weather doesn't always listen. We were only snowed out once, and that was in January. We still did some of what we wanted to do, before we both admitted we were frozen.

But, see, then you go have a bazillion calorie lunch or dinner!

Glad you had a great trip! An empty Yosemite?!?!

Lucky dog! Mucho jealous....

Best, OLH

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430
Old lady H wrote:

My son has the attitude to always go check it out anyway. Forecasts are just that, forecasts. The weather doesn't always listen. We were only snowed out once, and that was in January. We still did some of what we wanted to do, before we both admitted we were frozen.

But, see, then you go have a bazillion calorie lunch or dinner!

Glad you had a great trip! An empty Yosemite?!?!

Lucky dog! Mucho jealous....

Best, OLH


Its empty between now and May....:)

And thanks for the pm OLH. :)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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