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Totally fine badass whipper on WW


Original Post
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

http://rockandice.com/videos/weekend-whippers/trad-fall-rebar-5-11-a-red-river-gorge/

Edit: I’m an idiot who needs to watch videos more closely before sharing them.

Sam Cieply · · Venice, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 20

Rock climbing is inherently dangerous. Exciting whip!

Sandy Crimp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 15

Looks totally fine!  Way less sketch than 90% of the WW's.   Good clean fall, solid gear, great belay...nothing at all wrong there.  

Her last two pieces, which are indeed far away at that point, are very close together (less than a foot?).  So, she was not just protected by one piece, but that top piece held anyway.  She placed good solid gear that was backed up but solid on its own.   

And there was a VERY high chance that even the next piece down would have kept her off the deck.  It is only about a body length below the top two and she came to a stop easily 15 (probably 20) feet off the ground...so I think that still keeps her a bit off the deck.  This is 100% solid...not sketch. 

What is really really not cool here?  Seems like pretty good on all accounts.  Falls happen.  Good gear is meant to catch falls. 

Tee Kay · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 110

i think she is a lot higher than 'barely' off the ground.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

didn't look that bad. other than dropping gear on her belayer...

Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,402

It looked like a clean fall onto solid gear with a nice soft catch; the leader did not appear to be injured. My takeaway from the video was watching a climber safely pushing her limits on gear. Why exactly did this scare the crap out of you?

Chris Blatchley · · Somerville, MA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

looked like fun to me!

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 311
Luke Bertelsen · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 3,647

pretty tame by WW standards.

Tristan Bradford · · Oklahoma City, OK · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 651

Was the camera man fucking stoned? can you not follow a fall

Joe Prescott · · Berlin, DE · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 6

Looks safe and not even close to barely off the ground. Good clean fall.

kck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 85

that's a hard route.

NorCalNomad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 120
Ted Pinson wrote:

http://rockandice.com/videos/weekend-whippers/trad-fall-rebar-5-11-a-red-river-gorge/

Ok, this scared the crap out of me.  She was way above her gear and it looks like one piece (barely) kept her off of the ground.  Should we be celebrating and glorifying things like this?

WW were never about celebrating sketchy falls. That one wasn't too sketchy just a decent distance. 

kalockwood · · SLC, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 236

Don't go trad climbing Ted if this scares you.  Nothing wrong here. 

How is it being "celebrated and glorified"?  Nothing about the title of the video glorifies this trad fall.  You're just making stuff up.

Vaughn · · Colorado · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 50

It looks like she had at least 3 maybe 4 pieces between her and the ground.

Really great advice from the belayer. She follows up with "Yeah the idea is to not fall there."

Thanks for the tip!

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 380
Ted Pinson wrote:

Should we be celebrating and glorifying things like this?

Pretty much every Weakend Whimper is "celebrating and glorifying" stupid falls.  That was a huge fall, and Rebar is not even that long of a route.  Glad she was ok.  But really, the climber was just taking the calculated risk of a safe runout that every trad climber has ever done.

JonasMR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 6

Seems like exactly the kind of thing to glorify.  A scary feeling several body lengths above the last available pro, but everything held and she was just fine. 

Exactly the kind of thing to remember next time we are in that same situation.  That way we can know it'll be alright and focus on getting that next piece in, instead of the worrying about the fall.

Eric and Lucie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 140

Hard to tell for sure, but is there a piece below her (cam with yellow sling?) that she forgot to clip?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

Based on the responses I rewatched the video and realized that I mistook the climber for the belayer at the end.  The belayer gave a soft catch and ended up getting lifted just off the ground, which was was whet I thought the climber ended up.  Sorry, guys...total overreaction, safe fall.  My bad!

Jon Frisby · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 110

haha was about to say, Ted! She's less runout than NRG sport climbs!

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 124
Ted Pinson wrote:

Based on the responses I rewatched the video and realized that I mistook the climber for the belayer at the end.  The belayer gave a soft catch and ended up getting lifted just off the ground, which was was whet I thought the climber ended up.  Sorry, guys...total overreaction, safe fall.  My bad!

Given that, I can see how you'd be terrified.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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