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Beginner to intermediate climbs in Moab?


Original Post
Joe Lindberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65

I am going to Moab this weekend and am wondering what are some good tower/crack/adventure routes rated below 5.9.  So far I will be doing Owl rock and Looking glass rock. Any recommendations?

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 758

Root Canal

Eli Boardman · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 500

Bullwinkle Tower (just across from Owl Rock) is 5.6 and I had fun climbing it. People claim the anchor is questionable, but I had absolutely no qualms as it included a bunch of newish webbing around massive blocks.

Acmesalute76 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 55

Not much at that grade there, best advice is to rope up with someone who can climb 5.10 and TR a bunch to learn crack climbing....lead some 5.8/9 when you can. 

Joe Lindberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65
Acmesalute76 wrote:

Not much at that grade there, best advice is to rope up with someone who can climb 5.10 and TR a bunch to learn crack climbing....lead some 5.8/9 when you can. 

Any short 20-50 foot cracks going at 5.10 that I can practice my technique on?

Acmesalute76 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 55
Joe Lindberg wrote:

Any short 20-50 foot cracks going at 5.10 that I can practice my technique on?

I can't think of anything that short. Just go to Indian Creek. No better place to learn (although the learning curve is steep and painful!)

chris magness · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 580

Wall Street.  Good variety of single pitch stuff, no approach or commitment whatsoever.  

Acmesalute76 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 55
chris magness wrote:

Wall Street.  Good variety of single pitch stuff, no approach or commitment whatsoever.  

No crowds either!

Justin Laursen · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410

Go to the Ice Cream Parlor in Kane Springs Canyon. You'll have a blast. If you feel like a little hike and want to do something goofy, you could do T Cat just outside of Arches. The South Six Shooter also has a moderate climb on it, but it'll be busy and it's more hiking than climbing. You could also do Wilson Arch, but be prepared to simul rappel with a 70m rope. Have fun!

Joe Lindberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65

Thanks all, I just wish I could ever decide on a route, that's always my biggest downfall when it comes to climbing.

Moab Utah · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

Karl Kelley just presented a new book at the Moab Craggin' event this recent past weekend. he has also wrote, High on Moab.

The new book is about Indian Creek. https://americanalpineclub.org/moab-craggin-classic/

Keep in mind, for both books, proceeds go to the access fund and Karl had the organization promise that proceeds from the Indian Creek guidebook go to Indian Creek.

pretty neat!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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