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Today's pointless debate: gates in or gates out racking?


Original Post
Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 70

For today's pointless debate, let's discussing racking of quickdraws - gates in or gates out?

I'm kinda of following up on this BD article here and fanning the flames with it: http://blackdiamondequipment.com/s/BlackDiamond/en/experience-story?cid=gates-in-or-gates-out&utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+BlackDiamondEquipmentExperience+%28Black+Diamond+Equipment+Experience%29

I've always been racking gates in just because.... never really thought of it. After reading the article, I actually put on the harness, with draws both ways. It does seem to me you do have like 1 fewer move to do if you rack gate in - you just push the gate and pull up the draw, whereas if you rack gates out you need to twist it out somewhat. Objectively speaking though, it does feel like the draws "hang" more flush with gates outs. 

If I had to pick an decisive advantage however, seems to me that I'd prefer to have whatever allows me to grab the draw the fastest....  I might test it gates out for trad however - since the rack feels bulkier, it may be more of an advantage....

Minor point for gates in: when you transfer draws to someone else, it's easier to put them on their rack gates in than out.

Turner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 267

Gates out. Or yer gonna die.

Chase Giltner · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 66

Gates out.

It literally matters zero though. It's by far one of the most "personal preference" things in climbing.

With gates out, it is much more comfortable for me to reach things at the back of my harness. 

LCC kid · · SLC · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5

Gates out FTW.

However, I see gates in making sense for hard sport climbing where all you have clipped to your harness are draws. But for anything where I am clipping seven more more carabiners to a single gear loop, I prefer to rack gates out.

Finn The Human · · The Land of Ooo · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 106

I rack gates in when prepping to climb, although, oddly enough, when cleaning I will often rack gates out. So... both?

Cireously · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 15

Looks like another great marketing ploy from the corporate overlords at BD. 


Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 70
Cireously wrote:

Looks like another great marketing ploy from the corporate overlords at BD. 


YOU DIDNT ANSWER THE QUESTION

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120


Cireously · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 15
Franck Vee wrote:

YOU DIDNT ANSWER THE QUESTION

Oh but I did answer correctly, by not giving an opinion on a subject that is purely personal preference.

Dyll Pickle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Gates In

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 70
Cireously wrote:

Oh but I did answer correctly, by not giving an opinion on a subject that is purely personal preference.

From this, I will assume you are a closet gates in that uses gates out to fit in the crowds.

We'll welcome you in the gates in club when you're ready. We're very inclusive people (poom-tisk!)

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

In baby In - Although I am going to go home tonight and mess with out and explore the dark side. 

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Andrew Child · · Santa Clara · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 691

I usually rack gates in. But I also don't floss everyday so I guess I just do everything wrong.


In seriousness though I've noticed that its hard to put stuff onto the back gear loop when racking gates in. I usually keep an oval beaner with all my nuts on it in the back and I always end up reracking it gate out if I'm at a hard stance.

Mark Says · · Aspen, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 395

I rack gates out, my partner/girlfriend/long-time belayer racks gate in. I guess that makes us an inter-directional couple.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,249

Gates out for me, personal preference thing so it really doesn't matter, but anecdotally, I did win a musical quickdraws game at the idaho mountain fest while racking gates out, so that has to mean something about the speed of unracking gates out quickdraws right?

Marcelo F · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

You really think we're only going to get one pointless debate today? Someone already started a new "dogs at the crag" thread!

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 486

Sport I got gates in, it's faster/easier to open the gate and lift w/o a wrist flick.

Trad I rack gates out. If I get the size wrong on micro cams it's easier for me to clip back onto my gear loop by letting the gate be opened by pressing on the loop. I can tell it's clipped with a slight tug outward. Racking gate in it's harder to feel the basket at the end of the biner snugly on the gear loop. Yes I'm paranoid about dropping gear, but I've never dropped anything.

ViperScale . · · McMurdo Station, AQ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240
Nick Drake wrote:

Sport I got gates in, it's faster/easier to open the gate and lift w/o a wrist flick.

Trad I rack gates out. If I get the size wrong on micro cams it's easier for me to clip back onto my gear loop by letting the gate be opened by pressing on the loop. I can tell it's clipped with a slight tug outward. Racking gate in it's harder to feel the basket at the end of the biner snugly on the gear loop. Yes I'm paranoid about dropping gear, but I've never dropped anything.

How does in or out make it easier for the loop to open the gate? I rack in and I never touch the gate I just clip directly to the loop on the belt.

Fan Zhang · · Washington, DC · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,112

Gates in on the front gear loops make it easier to grab a biner across your body, i.e., grab a biner that's on the left front gear loop with right hand, or grab a biner on right front gear loop with left hand. (I learned this from Rgold when this topic came up for discussion once before on MP.) For gear on the rear gear loops, I prefer gates out because that feels more natural and there's little chance I'll need (or be flexible enough) to reach that far across my body to grab a biner.

Jack C. · · Calgary, AB · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325
Fan Zhang wrote:

Gates in on the front gear loops make it easier to grab a biner across your body, i.e., grab a biner that's on the left front gear loop with right hand, or grab a biner on right front gear loop with left hand. (I learned this from Rgold when this topic came up for discussion once before on MP.) For gear on the rear gear loops, I prefer gates out because that feels more natural and there's little chance I'll need (or be flexible enough) to reach that far across my body to grab a biner.

Wow more gold from Rgold.  I've never once thought of that (gates out all day every day) but it makes a good amount of sense!  Thanks Fan.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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