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Can someone drag me up an easy Lumpy route this weekend? 10/28 or 10/29 2017


Original Post
sherb · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 60

Is there anyone available this weekend Saturday or Sunday (looks to be warmer) who can drag me up an easy Lumpy route? 5.7 and under... I've led 5.7 in Eldo and followed lots of 5.9 and some 5.10a in Eldo but need more mileage for crack climbing, and want to familiarize myself with Lumpy before leading anything there.  I'm trying to figure out what is better suited for small hands, leading 5.9 face climbing is easy but 5.9 cracks elude me, possibly because of my hand size (small).  I've never climbed at Lumpy before and want to check it out.

I can bring a rope and any other gear.  I'm slow on the approach so you might have to carry bulk unless you don't mind waiting, especially since I've been living at low elevation, and I heard Lumpy approaches were long.  I give attentive belays (default to a grigri unless atc requested) and will defer to your preferred belaying / communication methods. I might be willing to lead an easy pitch if I feel comfortable with Lumpy, and there's good gear for anchors.  I can drive if you're in the Denver area, or provide gas, or an after climb food.

dsauerbrun · · Boulder · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 55

Not trying to come off as condescending but it sounds like you might be looking for a guide as opposed to a partner.

A quick google search brings up https://coloradomountainschool.com/courses/custom-rock-climbing/ and http://www.rockymountainguides.com/ as the top results. It might be more expensive than someone off mproj but if you're depending on someone else completely, it should probably be a professional as opposed to some random person off the internet(especially at the lower end of the grade spectrum). Also... support local blah blah blah and all that stuff.

edit: I assume by "drag" you mean you would be following all the pitches as opposed to leading some.

mark wallach · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 0

Not trying to come off as condescending dsauerbrun, but you were a bit condescending. The OP was as clear as possible as to her abilities and limitations; she has led climbs in Eldo, but is uncomfortable doing so at Lumpy. She is looking for a partner who can work within the limitations she described, and although there is nothing wrong with her hiring a guide, that is not what she had in mind. I share your unease at hooking up with a random partner via MP, but if she is comfortable doing so, go for it. Most of us have been "dragged" up routes that we were incapable of leading (in my case, more times than I can count), and there is nothing wrong with that. Give sherb a break. 

S2k 4life · · Baltimore · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 111

Hey sherb I just wanted to throw in my two cents bc I love lumpy and have done alot of the moderates

A good place to start might be the Batman and robin pinnacle,  it's about a 3 pitch 300 foot 5.6  that would be the shortest approach like 1.5 miles maybe 30min hike in

A great place to go is the left book. It has an array of different 5.7 climbs all 4-500 feet 3 pitches , white whale , hiatus ,manifest destiny , the dog are all good classics, this is a pretty low angle rock , not steep at all, 

Dont sell yourself short, if you lead 5.7 eldo you can lead all the climbs on left book no problem.  This is like a 2mile hike in, the last .5 is hard, like 45mins, bring plenty o water, it's around 8000,9000 feet there

Shep · · Grand Junction, Colorado · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20
mark wallach wrote:

Not trying to come off as condescending dsauerbrun, but you were a bit condescending. The OP was as clear as possible as to her abilities and limitations; she has led climbs in Eldo, but is uncomfortable doing so at Lumpy. She is looking for a partner who can work within the limitations she described, and although there is nothing wrong with her hiring a guide, that is not what she had in mind. I share your unease at hooking up with a random partner via MP, but if she is comfortable doing so, go for it. Most of us have been "dragged" up routes that we were incapable of leading (in my case, more times than I can count), and there is nothing wrong with that. Give sherb a break. 

+1! If I never had someone to drag my flailing tail up climbs I would never go climbing! Nothing wrong with being straight about your abilities.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 2,451

I've got to agree with dsauerbrun on this one although I may be biased. I'm certainly an advocate for casual climbing and certainly have found partners via Mountain Project but sherb really does sound as though she could benefit from the service of a guide. A guide is willing to be patient, work to achieve guests' goals, carry the brunt of the load and go at a pace the guest is capable of maintaining. A guide from the Colorado Mountain School will be able to work with sherb to assess abilities and focus on weaknesses (hand crack climbing). Also, a guide has the guests interests in mind whereas a climbing partner via MP may have the desire to climb something else and cause some distress for a less capable partner... Everyone has made some good points but I'd recommend sherb take a closer look at the Colorado Mountain School and make a further informed decision. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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