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Grivel G10 - "Half Shank" boots with full welt?

Original Post
Dante Carriero · · LOS ANGELES · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

I have some boots with a "half nylon and steel shank". Realistically they are much stiffer than any trail boot but still nothing like a full mountaineering boot. Id like to use a more serious crampon than just my hillsound trails. The boots are thick leather but do not have a steel reinforced toe. Im mainly looking for more traction in icy conditions and climbing hills ( I will not be doing any ice climbing in these - so no front pointing). I have "Northern Lite" snowshoes for softer conditions that work great with these.

The boots are the "Alico Tahoe" seen here:

I understand because of the half shank Ill probably have to buy the flex bar if I got something like a G10 or air tech? These boots have a big, full welt - can I get away with the "New Matic" style mound or do I have to go full straps since the sole has some flex? Are the welt mounted crampons really that much more stable?

Alex James · · Ballard, WA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 168

I don't know how helpful I'll be considering I don't know much about these particular boots or grivel crampons but I'll give it a shot since no one else seems to be responding. If I were you, I most likely would buy a pair of hybrid crampons (rear welt, and front strap). I have no idea if Grivel offers that option but BD does in most general mountaineering crampons. You don't have to worry then about an automatic crampon slipping off due to the shoe flexing, but it will be faster than a purely strap on crampon. 

My limited experience involves using Vasque Breeze boots (trail boots) with strap on BD Neve crampons, and using La Sportiva Makalu boots (mostly mountaineering boots) with automatic (pro) BD serac crampons. I haven't done anything crazy intense with either but I can't say I noticed much difference in stability. As long as both are fitted properly and tight, they perform about the same. The automatic ones are just faster to take on and off. They also won't loosen over time which is a little bit of a plus that you don't have to tighten the strap on the crampon like once or twice during a full day. 

grubbers · · Mass. · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

I would only use strap crampons with those boots. While the boots may have welts, they are not designed with crampon use in mind and you will likely run into issues trying to use a newmatic-style crampon. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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