How long until you can "onsight" a route again?


Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 200
Guy Keesee wrote:

To make it more clear......    Do do ever get to become a virgin again?????   


Haha, I was climbing with Medusa at Tick the other day and we were talking about beta, I swear Medusa is some kind of savant when it comes to route beta.  He can remember every move of every climb he has ever done.  I on the other hand can't remember climbs I did a years ago.  I remember places and the people I was with and sometimes specific climbs.  When talking about Joshua Tree forget it, I have climbed tons of stuff out there but can't remember names or specific routes for crap save for a few stand outs.   I can do the same climb up at the Tunnels, my "home crag" and end up doing it different every time it seems.  I think that is what keeps me from moving into harder grades.   So if you have a memory like me you can be a "virgin" again and insight the same route twice.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,067
Bryce Adamson wrote:

I think the term you're looking for is "retro-flash." 

I've always thought of that term as kind of a joke, though. No, you can't flash or onsight something you've already climbed.

No, No, it's a Madonna Onsight, ya know, feels like the very first time!

Andrew Child · · Santa Clara · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 655

You get one sober onsight attempt and one drunk onsight attempt. If you missed you chance while you were sober, drink until you can't remember anything and give it another go.

Lena chita · · Cleveland, OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 250

If you still remember that you had climbed this route before, even if you don't remember any beta, it is too soon for another onsight.

If you had forgotten not only everything about the route, but even the fact that you have climbed it before, then maybe... :)

Bowens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 60
Lena chita wrote:

If you still remember that you had climbed this route before, even if you don't remember any beta, it is too soon for another onsight.

If you had forgotten not only everything about the route, but even the fact that you have climbed it before, then maybe... :)

I've climbed a route I thought was new for me, but when I went to log it on Mountainproject I found that I'd done it before.  What do you call that?

Mark Waterous · · Aspen, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 385
Bowens wrote:

I've climbed a route I thought was new for me, but when I went to log it on Mountainproject I found that I'd done it before.  What do you call that?

Alcoholism.

Bowens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 60
Mark Waterous wrote:

Alcoholism.

3 years had passed between the time that I first climbed it and the second time.

Dan.G. yorlig · · Queens, NY · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0
stlcrim wrote:

Actually, you can: Hymenoplasty

surprised it took a whole hour for someone to bring this up...

Mark Waterous · · Aspen, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 385
Bowens wrote:

3 years had passed between the time that I first climbed it and the second time.

I feel ya. The nights just blur together, some mornings you wake up on the couch, other mornings you wake up on a couch, that you found in an alley and dragged under a nearby tree. Before you realize it, you're waking up in a trailer with 3 pairs of climbing shoes that don't fit, a rack of big bros made out of PBRs, and someone texting you claiming to be "your wife".

Alcoholism.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 115
Tomily ma wrote:

Stoner’s onsight is 2 years without seeing the route. In Canada it’s 34 years. (Double it and add 32.) 

You have it backwards, in Canada a stoner's onsight is every 2 years.  In the US you have to double it and add 32.

Lena chita · · Cleveland, OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 250
Bowens wrote:

I've climbed a route I thought was new for me, but when I went to log it on Mountainproject I found that I'd done it before.  What do you call that?

A very unmemorable route?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Bowens wrote:

I've climbed a route I thought was new for me, but when I went to log it on Mountainproject I found that I'd done it before.  What do you call that?

The Alzheimer's FA.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,067
Matt Himmelstein wrote:

You have it backwards, in Canada a stoner's onsight is every 2 years.  In the US you have to double it and add 32.

come on people, get it right, it's times by 1.8 and add 32.  If you're going for the approximation it's double it and add 30.

AndrewArroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Kevin Mokracek wrote:

Haha, I was climbing with Medusa at Tick the other day and we were talking about beta, I swear Medusa is some kind of savant when it comes to route beta.  He can remember every move of every climb he has ever done.  I on the other hand can't remember climbs I did a years ago.  I remember places and the people I was with and sometimes specific climbs.  When talking about Joshua Tree forget it, I have climbed tons of stuff out there but can't remember names or specific routes for crap save for a few stand outs.   I can do the same climb up at the Tunnels, my "home crag" and end up doing it different every time it seems.  I think that is what keeps me from moving into harder grades.   So if you have a memory like me you can be a "virgin" again and insight the same route twice.

Must be all that medicine he consumes while climbing that keeps Medusa's memory sharp... 

Bowens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 60
Lena chita wrote:

A very unmemorable route?

Hah, fair commentary.  

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 253
Ken Noyce wrote:

come on people, get it right, it's times by 1.8 and add 32.  If you're going for the approximation it's double it and add 30.

Thanks, Ken! With your explanation, I finally figured out what the hell everyone else was talking about!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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