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Multi pitch climbs in LA area


Original Post
Joy Christensen · · Pasadena, CA · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

I’m looking to try multi pitch sport climbing for the first time but can only find multi pitch climbs in Devil’s Punchbowl. Does anyone know any more spots with multi pitch climbs in the LA area? 

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 13,322

Joy...Try Texas Canyon. It has a few moderate two to three pitch routes. Definitely, longer then anything at Devil's Punchbowl.

B Owens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 60
Joy Christensen wrote:

I’m looking to try multi pitch sport climbing for the first time but can only find multi pitch climbs in Devil’s Punchbowl. Does anyone know any more spots with multi pitch climbs in the LA area? 

El Cajon Mountain, in San Diego.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,249
FrankPS wrote:

For some reason I don't remember seeing a whole lot of multi-pitch SPORT climbing on Tahquitz like the OP asked for.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Ken Noyce wrote:

For some reason I don't remember seeing a whole lot of multi-pitch SPORT climbing on Tahquitz like the OP asked for.

Whoops, you're right. I didn't see the word, "sport." I retract my statement - not the end of thread!

Sean Haynes · · Los Angeles · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 107
Joy Christensen wrote:

I’m looking to try multi pitch sport climbing for the first time but can only find multi pitch climbs in Devil’s Punchbowl. Does anyone know any more spots with multi pitch climbs in the LA area? 

There isn't a lot. 

Bee rock , echo cliff's,  Texas canyon, tunnel crag,

Ancent · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 34

Several two-pitch options at Echo cliffs. If you top out, walk to balanced rock, and then climb that, it almost feels like a 4 pitch climb (3 5th class, and one brush grovel)!

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

Tunnel Craig has the best multi. 

Texas long climbs are pretty low angle... 

ECHO has ez pz first pitches with good second pitch.

We are blessed with lots of scruffy little crags.


Go to the ORG if you wish to put some air under your boots 

SeƱor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Joy, make the beautiful hike into Echo Cliffs. Walk all the way to the FAR end of the crag, Easy Street. You'll find a half-dozen great 2 pitch climbs with, as Guy said, easy first pitches and harder 2nd pitches. Great ledge and bolted anchors between P1 and 2. Can't go wrong for learning multi pitch techniques.

Riverside Quarry is another place though I'm not familiar with it and have heard mixed reviews.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,249
AndrewArroz wrote:

Joy, make the beautiful hike into Echo Cliffs. Walk all the way to the FAR end of the crag, Easy Street. You'll find a half-dozen great 2 pitch climbs with, as Guy said, easy first pitches and harder 2nd pitches. Great ledge and bolted anchors between P1 and 2. Can't go wrong for learning multi pitch techniques.

Riverside Quarry is another place though I'm not familiar with it and have heard mixed reviews.

There's not really any multi-pitch at riverside quarry, there are long routes that have a midway anchor, but it would be very uncomfortable using the mid anchors for a hanging belay, especially if you are just getting into multi-pitch climbing.

Frustration Creek has some multi-pitch, or some routes that could be combined to form a multi-pitch route, but the main multi-pitch route there has been removed.

Sam Cieply · · Venice, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 20

Riparian Daydream at Wheeler Gorge in Ojai is fun. It's a bit of a drive, but definitely worth a day trip for mellow cragging.

StatJuan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10
Ken Noyce wrote:

There's not really any multi-pitch at riverside quarry, there are long routes that have a midway anchor, but it would be very uncomfortable using the mid anchors for a hanging belay, especially if you are just getting into multi-pitch climbing.

American Dream is a nice 4-pitch route at the Quarry with good stances. 

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,249
StatJuan wrote:

American Dream is a nice 4-pitch route at the Quarry with good stances. 

good to know, I haven't done that one, but it must have either very short pitches, lots of traversing, or a combo of both since I don't think the cliff band is more than 200' tall at any point.

Daniel T · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35

There was just another pretty good rock fall this past weekend at the Riverside Quarry, FWIW.


As mentioned there is Frustration Creek, which has several 2-3 pitch routes both face and slab climbing and located in Redlands.

B Owens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 60

Seriously, ECM:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105793305?search=1&type=route&method=resultsPage&query=leonids


300 feet of excellent climbing split into between 2 and 4 pitches, all safely bolted,.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310
Sam Cieply wrote:

Riparian Daydream at Wheeler Gorge in Ojai is fun. It's a bit of a drive, but definitely worth a day trip for mellow cragging.

Not a sport climb....    one needs a rack. 

But a worthy place to spend some time.

Sam Cieply · · Venice, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 20
Guy Keesee wrote:

Not a sport climb....    one needs a rack. 

But a worthy place to spend some time.

Oh right, but first two pitches are bolted. Easily linked however.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 240

I'll put a plug in for The Tunnel Crag.  There are a several two and three pitch routes on the main formation and a couple of good two pitch routes on Vista Mt.   Weather is really good up there right now.   The only drawback with the Tunnels is the lack of good route info.   Lots of new routes just no info on them.  Most are in the 5.10-5.11 range.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310
Kevin Mokracek wrote:

I'll put a plug in for The Tunnel Crag.  There are a several two and three pitch routes on the main formation and a couple of good two pitch routes on Vista Mt.   Weather is really good up there right now.   The only drawback with the Tunnels is the lack of good route info.   Lots of new routes just no info on them.  Most are in the 5.10-5.11 range.

Kevin....   it keeps the adventure factor up. MP and the spotty coverage is pretty confusing. When I read the descriptions of that place, I get confused. 


J. Constine took this shot of me n Rob from the anchor at the top of pitch three, of what we call "the main arete" ....  climb Paper Clip.... head over to the right.. ez but unprotected 

and join whatever line of bolts you can find. 

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 240

Guy, there is a new route I put up a while back that takes the obvious wide crack feature to the right of Paper Clip that ends closer to the start of the arete.  It’s 10.a/b.  It looks like it used to be an old aid route as there are big holes that had lead sleeves in them every 5 feet or so.   It goes straight up past where two cracks cross each other and ends at a good stance. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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