Mountain Project Logo

RRG Recommendations

Original Post
Emmett Wynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Hey mountainproj,

I'm headed to the Red for the first time in my life Oct 20-23. I just moved to Chicago for school and I'm pumped to get some time off to climb. 

I'm a little intimidated by the hugeness of the Red- Do you guys have any recommendations for areas to check out? I lead in the 10+ to 11- range, depending on the crag. I would also love to find any trad climbing in the 5.8-5.9 range. 

Also if anyone needs a partner or wants to take a noob around, hit me up!



kyle howe · · Knoxville, TN · Joined May 2013 · Points: 1,042

Not sure on sport climbing , but for trad in the 8-9 range, I'd recommend: Long Wall, Tower Rock, Eastern Sky Bridge, Fortress Wall. 

pat a · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

The red is so huge and so good that being overwhelmed and exploring is part of the fun.  Hard to even narrow it down for recommendations.  :)

On gear, focus on the north gorge.  Just bear in mind that the grades are a bit more old school.  If you've heard the Red is soft, that doesn't apply to trad. Fortress Wall is a great place to get your feet wet as the grades are a bit on the easier side so you calibrate things.  Then go do Rock Wars at Long Wall.  5.10a but easier than any 5.9 trad route I've done, bomber gear and stupid beautiful.  Some great stuff at Middle/Lower Small Wall, too.  

In the South gorge, check out Roadside AKA Graining Fork.  Roadside Attraction and Five Finger Discount are must-do.

In the 5.10-5.11- sport range, you have practically unlimited options.  Look at my tick list.  Gallery (especially) and Drive By are super popular and super awesome.  Lots of climbs and great intros to RRG climbing.  Muir Valley is completely loaded with classics in that range, too.  Miller Fork has its own guide book and some great walls (Fruit, Chaos, Serenity, etc) loaded with good 5.10/5.11 climbing.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

Use online database to plan your climbing -

Derrick Keene · · Kentucky · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 95

I'll be out this weekend if you want to group up. Will be there with my wife and a couple others probably. I climb both trad and sport about the same range as you.

Medic741 · · Des Moines, IA (WTF) · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

If it’s your first time, Muir Valley!  Easy to get different styles in — easy To find and no wandering around in the woods looking for stuff. 

Ah and if you’re climbing 11’s Amarillo sunset is sublime

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
Post a Reply to "RRG Recommendations"

Log In to Reply