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Pull up assist band for campus board


Original Post
wooddottir · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 755

Thoughts? Anybody seen or done this? I'm looking to have one for campus board warm-ups where the campus board does not have any footholds to use. Chime in please!

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 294

It's pretty easy to try it out and see how you like it. I've never done it, so all this is just in theory... but I think it's not a good idea. The variable assistance throughout the movement and the slingshot effect will change the campus movement. If the campus board doesn't have any footholds, how about just use a stool placed behind the board?

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 380

I would think it would easier and more consistent to use pulleys and weights (as with a hangboard) for campusing.  

But either way, you really shouldn't be warming up on any sort of campus board.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 12,054

I've done this with a band/theraband to help assist as I worked up to smaller rungs. This wasn't for warming up--there are better, less risky ways to warm up (jugs on a hangboard, pulley system with a hangboard, etc.) The band has its drawbacks...more assist initially and it lessens as you pull up but I did find it helpful. I wore a harness, clipped the band to a hanger mounted on the backside of the campus board and then clipped that band to my harness belay loop. 

A pulley system would be more effective if you can rig that up. 

wooddottir · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 755

Thanks for the responses.

The campus board is setup in a stairwell. so, while I could put my feet on the stairs behind me, it changes the dynamics/body position quite a lot. also makes using a stool difficult.

I was thinking of having a longer band and stepping into it. Pulleys and weights is less convenient, but I will look into setting that system up, thanks.

I think it's pretty standard for people to start their campus session with feet on, and this is what I mean by warmup. Also, I'm not uber strong, and this is my first foray into campusing. so I want to be able to work my way into it gradually. I have the largest metolius rungs fyi.



Jeff Moon · · Rapid City, SD · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 25

I’d suggest not campusing until you are strong enough to do it without assistance. Also, dont warm up on a campus board. Just asking to blow a tendon.

wooddottir · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 755

I guess I'll try it out and see how it works for me and report back.

How does everybody like to warm up before campusing? I have spoken to two very strong friends (v8 & v12) that say they campus before climbing, and I've spoken to others (less strong) that say they campus after climbing has warmed them up. At home I can do pushups, pullups, etc. What's good warmup for campusing? Thoughts?

Jeff... Why does a n00b lyke me want to campus? 2 reasons:

  1. Currently I deduce my contact strength is keeping me from progressing:  for some reason I seem to climb harder routes (v1/green 5.7s at the gym ***edit: ***sarcasm***) than people that can hangboard way harder than I can , which I equate to meaning that, with better contact strength, I will be able to see some welcome improvements in performance and climb harder, sweeter routes. Also, we all know that climbing is all about being better than other people, right?
  2. I'd like to be able to more efficiently train at home. I am over-committed with work, school, and life. Campusing, seems like a good way to get pumped in the comfort of my own home and allow me time to procrastinate in other ways, such as writing semi-sarcastic posts on forums and eating chicken nuggets.

Thanks for the replies. 


aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 294
amockalypsenow wrote:

I can climb harder routes (v1/green 5.7s at the gym) than people that can hangboard way harder than I can (humblebrag), 

If you're really climbing V1/5.7s in the gym, campusing is the last thing you need. I won't even recommend hangboarding even though I'm a big proponent of it. You just need to climb more.

I understand the desire to have some simple tool at home to train. I train almost exclusively on a hangboard because that's all I have at home. But I know that I'm missing out a lot on movement and technique practice, so I try to climb as often as I can (which is at most 5-6 times a month).

5.samadhi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40
Pnelson wrote:

I would think it would easier and more consistent to use pulleys and weights (as with a hangboard) for campusing.  

But either way, you really shouldn't be warming up on any sort of campus board.

Why shouldn't you warm up on a campus board? The holds are uniform the movement can be done statically and there are usually large juggy rails which IMO make it the perfect warm up tool.,

Troy S · · Somerville, MA · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 75

Campusing isn't intended to be done statically, especially if OP is trying to improve his contact strength. Each setup is different but actually campusing on your standard Moon or Metolius large, medium and small rungs on a board pitched at 15 - 20 degrees requires a considerable amount of finger strength and doing either some light bouldering/climbing or hangboarding to warm up prior to the campus sesh is definitely a good idea. If you are strong enough to do 10 pull-ups in  a row but can't campus, you might just need to work on your technique. Have someone else watch you and see if you're doing something wrong. There is a sort of kip involved in campusing and it just takes practice but if your lats/shoulders aren't strong enough then improving your technique wont get you anywhere. I would campus up on jugs on the most overhung wall at your gym and campus back down too for training. 

JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 95

OP should not be using a campus board yet. I'll second the opinion that if you need assistance, you should use other tools for now.

Jeff Moon · · Rapid City, SD · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 25

I've been having good results using a "gripster". It really allows you to fine tune weights. You can use loads well below body weight and can also use it for travel since you can attach it to a cable machine, which most hotel fitness rooms have. Good for apartment too since it takes up no space and doesn't require mounting on the wall. Also, it allows you to isolate arms, so one arm can't compensate for weakness in the other. 

I only recommend this because I tried using the campus board before I was ready and ended up injured and seriously stalling my progress. At the end of the day, its up to you if you think a certain tool will help. If you insist on warming up on a campus board, I'd suggest standing on something solid as opposed to using a band, just seems like it could result in a weird fall if you came off unexpectedly. Good luck.

Nivel Egres · · New York, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 130

Actually, i keep hearing that people should not bother with campus training until they are climbing 5.13/v7 or even harder. My limited experience is that after a campus session I have a bit more "snap" for a few days (after recovery, that is) so it definitely helps something but it always feels like a waste of a training session and the Moon board does the same for me.

wooddottir · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 755

Some interesting input, thank you people.

I spoke to a very experienced v8 climber that suggested campusing was less likely to cause injury than bouldering for some of the same reasons 5.samadhi mentioned.

Clearly it puts a lot of load on your tendons and so builds strength just as it increases injury risk, but I've heard more people say that the campus board has made them strong than disable them. 

I can campus, but it's new to me, and difficult- does that disqualify me? I can also do 10 consecutive pull-ups with good form, Does that qualify me? Interesting that Jason Halladay is the only person that has commented that has tried using a band and commented the band helped break into harder territory. How were the get offs/falls while using the band Jason?

I have plateaued in my performance somewhat, and looking for ways to break through, and am prepared to sack up and risk injury to get stronger.

I see how falling while attached to a band or even a pulley system would be crappy. I'll see if there's a way I can try it out at a gym with a crash pad beneath me and jump/step off and see what happens.

Thanks for the input peeps. Keep it coming  

Nivel Egres · · New York, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 130

I don't think your friend is correct. For the same amount of training benefit (whichever way you'd want to express it) campus training is far more likely to produce an injury. Another way to put it -  if you did both bouldering and campus training in amounts equalized for probability of injury, you're climbing would improve way more from the former than the latter.

Aaron Danforth · · Cody, WY · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 0

If you can climb V1,you can climb far harder than 5.7. If you're struggling, you need to practice more. If your technique was up to snuff, you'd likely be able to climb 5.11 or 5.12 with your current level of strength. You do not need to campus, you need to climb.

wooddottir · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 755

Some interesting input. Thanks all.

This thread seems to have drifted from my original question pertaining to using bands to one about my personal readiness for campus training. Can we please keep posts relevant? 

The 5.7 thing I wrote... Oh man. I thought that was obvious that wasn't serious. I'm a dick here, racking up my douchebag points talking about stupid numbers, but for the sake of clarity: I onsight most 10s, send some 11s and a couple 12s. don't project stuff; this is just hopping on and trying, outside grades. I keep track of most of my ticks on my page, if you really want a riveting experience, you can check them out.

The thing that's attractive about the campusing is that I can get pumped on a day that I can't make it somewhere proper to climb. 

Aaron Danforth · · Cody, WY · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 0

If you want people to give you training advice, don't bullshit them. 

wooddottir · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 755
Danforth Danforth wrote:

If you want people to give you training advice, don't bullshit them. 

I'm sorry if I offended you. I didn't mean to bs, I just meant to express that I climb meager grades.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205

im confused as to how this whole set up is supposed to work, care to draw a small diagram? 

Aaron Danforth · · Cody, WY · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 0

You didn't offend me, but people can't give you realistic advice if you aren't honest about where you are. No 5.7 climber needs to campus. You said originally that's where you were. You complained that the thread got off topic, but it's because you didn't give an honest assessment of your climbing ability.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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