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Portaledge on the nose?


Eric Fjellanger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 840
Mydans wrote:

the 5.9 rating came from the people who pretty much invented the YDS.

I can think of few phrases that are more indicative of a sandbag.

Its a total classic but it is a trade route thats been free climbed more than any route on the captain except Freerider

So you're saying it's "easy" because it's been free climbed. But I can climb C3 and I definitely can't climb 5.13. Sure there are different ways you can use the word "hard" but I can't figure out any reasonable way to say C3 is harder than 5.13. Zodiac is just aid climbing right? You get on the wall and climb 4-5 pitches a day and then you're done? It's steep so hauling is easy? You don't even have to think about free climbing?

This is a total derail at this point, but does anyone seriously think Freeblast is 5.9 A0? Seems tongue-in-cheek to me. Back when I first read about it I couldn't understand how the Salathe was 5.9 A0 while Freeblast was 5.11 runout slab climbing. Nobody I ever asked about it could explain it convincingly. Now I have climbed Freeblast and I still didn't understand it. The comment on the MP page is about right: "bolt assisted bewilderment of its not 5.9 difficulty"

Ha, I see the pin on P3 is now gone... someone should just put a damn bolt in there. Good ol' Valley ethics.

Eric Fjellanger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 840
Theta Gamma wrote:

Eric-to answer your question 10.20b is twice as hard as 5.10a. Again, jmo

man I suck at climbing

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415
darrell Cornick wrote:

Another big reason to bring a ledge on the nose is that with that if you use a microtraxion, the hauling with a ledge isn’t that bad. The increased pulley efficiency over the mini trax has really changed my thoughts on bringing a ledge.

I don’t think the efficiency of the micro over the mini is more than 10%. Hell, even if it was 25%, I doubt you would be able to tell the difference. 

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415
Eric Fjellanger wrote:

This is a total derail at this point, but does anyone seriously think Freeblast is 5.9 A0? Seems tongue-in-cheek to me. Back when I first read about it I couldn't understand how the Salathe was 5.9 A0 while Freeblast was 5.11 runout slab climbing. Nobody I ever asked about it could explain it convincingly. Now I have climbed Freeblast and I still didn't understand it.

Ha, I see the pin on P3 is now gone... someone should just put a damn bolt in there. Good ol' Valley ethics.

Freeblast is FREE climbing the first 10 pitches of the Salathe to Mammoth Ledges. If you don’t free climb them, you didn’t do Freeblast, you did the first 10 of the Salathe. It’s a route within a route, those pitches shouldn’t have been given a route name. 

Cams easily protect the 3rd pitch, there is no need for a pin or a bolt.

Eric Fjellanger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 840

I climbed French-Freeblast.

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 420
Mark Hudon wrote:

Freeblast is FREE climbing the first 10 pitches of the Salathe to Mammoth Ledges. If you don’t free climb them, you didn’t do Freeblast, you did the first 10 of the Salathe. It’s a route within a route, those pitches shouldn’t have been given a route name. 

Cams easily protect the 3rd pitch, there is no need for a pin or a bolt.

Not everyone has a double rack of Totems you old sandbagger! 

:P

darrell Cornick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 5
Mark Hudon wrote:

I don’t think the efficiency of the micro over the mini is more than 10%. Hell, even if it was 25%, I doubt you would be able to tell the difference. 

I noticed a significant difference going from a mini to a micro. It’s 20% more efficient. You had me wondering if the Micro Traxion was really more efficient or if it was that I gained ten pounds and hauling just seemed easier. I suspect it was both. I am also too  intellectually  lazy to use 2 or 3:1 systems so I may notice it more. 

The micro specs
Weight: 85 g
Min. rope diameter: 8 mm
Max. rope diameter: 11 mm
Sheave type: sealed ball bearings
Sheave diameter: 25 mm
Efficiency: 91 %
Working load: 2,5 kN x 2 = 5 kN
Breaking strength: 7.5 kN x 2 = 15 kN
Working load as progress capture pulley: 2.5 kN
Breaking strength as progress capture pulley: 4 kN
Certification(s): CE EN 567, UIAA

mini specs

Weight : 165 g
Min. rope diameter : 8 mm
Max. rope diameter : 13 mm
Sheave diameter : 19 mm
Efficiency : 71 %
Working load : 2,5 kN x 2 = 5 kN
Breaking strength : 10 kN x 2 = 20 kN
Working load as progress capture pulley : 2.5 kN
Breaking strength as progress capture pulley : 4 kN

I

jlind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 33

Thanks for the input on the ledge everyone.   As well as all the extra chatter.   

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

Darrell, so 20%. I’ll bet you $100 that a blindfolded hauler cannot tell the difference when hauling  a 150 pound bag on the same pitch. 

Yeah, Totems are great but I took a giant whip on the 5th pitch when two of them pulled. In those shallow pin scars, Metolius Offset Master Cams are the way to go. 

And btw, I have four sets. ;)

darrell Cornick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 5
Mark Hudon wrote:

Darrell, so 20%. I’ll bet you $100 that a blindfolded hauler cannot tell the difference when hauling  a 150 pound bag on the same pitch. 

Yeah, Totems are great but I took a giant whip on the 5th pitch when two of them pulled. In those shallow pin scars, Metolius Offset Master Cams are the way to go. 

And btw, I have four sets. ;)

Sounds good. I'll be there  in April with 150-ish pounds of crap in haul bags and a hundred dollar bill. 

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

Ha! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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