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Moab/Indian Creek 5.10 Green Camalot cracks?


Original Post
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 289

Just as it says above...green camalot/finger stacks is a size that's hard for me.  It seems like many times this size lurks in the 11 range, but I'm wondering if there are some recommended "introductory" routes in the 10 range at this size at Indian Creek or in the Moab area, presumably a little lower angle or with better feet.  Suggestions would be appreciated!

Duncan Domingue · · Scott, LA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

There was a route to the right of "Working Class Hero" in Day Canyon, Moab, UT, that I seem to remember being about that size. It was slightly less than vertical if I remember, and the feet are definitely there (otherwise I wouldn't have been able to climb it!). I was proud to send it because I'm pretty bad at that size, and the crack wouldn't let me cheat by pulling on face holds or using feet on the face. The "High on Moab" guidebook gives it 5.9, but I felt it was harder than that (caveat being that I'm bad at that size crack). Watch out near the top, there are loose rocks just as you get to the anchors, and your belayer won't have much room to maneuver any missiles you send their way.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/unknown-crack-right-of-working-class-hero/106131303

kingfisher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

Generally speaking, difficulty corresponds with size and consistency of size in Indian Creek. While variation exists in route angles the lion's share of the routes are vertical or in that range. Basically, if it's loaded with greens it ain't 5.10. You can check out routes with intermittent sections at this size, but you really aren't going to improve at the size until you just face up to it and put in some work. Go get on one of those harder routes, work your way up it, TR it, and teach yourself to feel more comfortable on it. 

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,450

Yeah it's unlikely what you are looking for exists.  Best bet is to find a 5.11 that has a very short greens section, aid it, then toprope that section a bunch. There's lots of climbs with like 10 feet of greens.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/mad-dog/105717688

I remember this route had a short stacks section. 

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Some 5.10-5.11- to solid 5.11 with sections of green:

Cube steaks

top of The potato

Coyne crack simulator (more of a layback)

Pop quiz

Revenge of the rock gods

Top of Pente

-our piece of real estate

-crack attack

-Rock lobster

-Rump roast 2

-black corner

-battle of the bulge.


Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 289
kingfisher wrote:

Generally speaking, difficulty corresponds with size and consistency of size in Indian Creek. While variation exists in route angles the lion's share of the routes are vertical or in that range. Basically, if it's loaded with greens it ain't 5.10. You can check out routes with intermittent sections at this size, but you really aren't going to improve at the size until you just face up to it and put in some work. Go get on one of those harder routes, work your way up it, TR it, and teach yourself to feel more comfortable on it. 

Thanks everyone, and kingfisher, you gave me a chuckle, I'm sure your advice is right on.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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