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Placing gear with a coat hanger


Original Post
David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 108

On the stick clipping thread, it was mentioned that some Gunks climbs were first ascended by placing gear with a coat hanger.

Personally, I love trad, but don't do it for the spice. So I can see this being a skill I would want to add to my arsenal.

Does anyone have pointers on how gear can be placed with a coat hanger (or other similar reachy thingies).

Chris Blatchley · · Somerville, MA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Just hook it and whip. Bomber.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
David Kerkeslager wrote:

On the stick clipping thread, it was mentioned that some Gunks climbs were first ascended by placing gear with a coat hanger.

Personally, I love trad, but don't do it for the spice. So I can see this being a skill I would want to add to my arsenal.

Does anyone have pointers on how gear can be placed with a coat hanger (or other similar reachy thingies).

Bend the hanger so that it has a little horizontal part at the top. Push that between the wires of a nut - stoppers work best. Put a draw on it, and, optionally, clip in the rope, depending. While applying slight downward tension on the draw/rope to keep it on the hanger, reach up with hanger and slot nut. Sometimes a bit of tape helps. Variations abound for specific instances. There's no one way. Get inventive and be creative!

M Jarmland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

Theoretically the super clip can do this, although I've never tried and would probably be pretty hesitant to trust a piece placed from 10' or more below.... 

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 108
Jarmland wrote:

LOL what is THAT? Some specialized device?

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 108
John Wilder wrote:

Theoretically the super clip can do this, although I've never tried and would probably be pretty hesitant to trust a piece placed from 10' or more below.... 

Interesting, I have the superclip but don't see how it could be used to place gear easily.

Definitely I'd consider any piece marginal if I couldn't see the placement clearly.

M Jarmland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0
David Kerkeslager wrote:

LOL what is THAT? Some specialized device?

First thing that came to mind when I saw your thread. Their website seems to be down but I guess it's a real product..?

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107844812/cam-extractor

Upstate Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 414
Jarmland wrote:

Ever not be able to plug a piece because it's placement is just out of reach? Put these on all your cams before you start a climb to place gear more efficiently!

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Nolan Huther wrote:

Put these on all your cams before you start a climb to place gear more efficiently!

You don't need one on each cam. Sheesh.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535
David Kerkeslager wrote:

Interesting, I have the superclip but don't see how it could be used to place gear easily.

Definitely I'd consider any piece marginal if I couldn't see the placement clearly.

It's in the instruction manual for it. Like I said, probably wouldn't trust it unless I could see it... 

Upstate Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 414
Marc801 C wrote:

You don't need one on each cam. Sheesh.

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 108
John Wilder wrote:

It's in the instruction manual for it. Like I said, probably wouldn't trust it unless I could see it... 

Interesting. I received mine from Amazon in a ziploc bag with a single piece of paper (maybe 3'x5') showing a diagram the clip with a quickdraw. I didn't think anything of it because it's a pretty simple device, and doesn't ever hold body weight. But maybe I received a counterfeit knock-off? :O

ebmudder · · Bronx, NY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 50

Is it too obvious to note that you can extend your nuts by looping them together? 

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/112197561

As a noob trad leader, I used this to protect the first moves off the ground on-sighting Arch in the 'Gunks, where you needed to place a nut above the first flake where it was just out of reach (if you're 5'10"). Seems like anything > 12" and the hanger would be too floppy to be useful?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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