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What the hell happened to climbing etiquette


Original Post
Eric Castanza · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

I got back into climbing this year after about a 15 year break and I was a little put back by the lack of etiquette I have witnessed at a popular local spot. I have witnessed this on my last 3 trips to the spot.

People leaving trash, screaming and yelling parties while hanging out at the crag, climbing below people, letting kids play with and on other peoples gear and bags, we  even had a tall guy stand  directly in front of my short belayer blocking his view


Morgan Patterson · · CT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,759

Sounds like you went to Rumney...

Eric Castanza · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Patuckaway 

Morgan Patterson · · CT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,759

Most popular bouldering area in New England... It might be 'local' to you but it's not longer a 'local's spot,' so sounds about right!

Russ Walling · · www.FishProducts.com · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,231

Climbing edicate has NEVER existed...

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Russ Walling wrote:

Climbing edicate has NEVER existed...

Russ is correct. It has always been "etiquette."

Seth Monteleone · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 46
FrankPS wrote:

Russ is correct. It has always been "etiquette."

Was I the only one confused as hell?

Colby Wangler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 206

Regardless of spelling, he's right it's a damn shit show out there everywhere you go....

Luke Bertelsen · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 3,257
Seth Monteleone wrote:

Was I the only one confused as hell?

nope.

· · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Maybe you get the more respect when you crush the 9c on the climbing rocks!!

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

I've been climbing, off and on, for about 45 years. Things have changed largely due to the much larger numbers of climbers these days. 

I used to spend entire days climbing and rarely, if at all, saw other climbers. Now we stand in line waiting to get on routes in some more well known crags. 

More people= more people that have no "edicate"

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 380

Hey, what's the best kind of cordilate to use for trad anchors, guys?

John Barritt · · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,045

"edicate do not matter no more old trad dad"

I blame the gym, sport bolting, the internet, McDonalds, Wal-Mart, and especially us old guys for inventing internal combustion and for bolting BITD

"We have seen the enemy and they is us"................ ;)


IcePick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 100
Pnelson wrote:

Hey, what's the best kind of cordilate to use for trad anchors, guys?

Pwopably 7 mill cword

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
John Barritt wrote:

"edicate do not matter no more old trad dad"

I blame the gym, sport bolting, the internet, McDonalds, Wal-Mart, and especially us old guys for inventing internal combustion and for bolting BITD

"We have seen the enemy and they is us"................ ;)


What did McDonalds do?

Paul Deger · · Colorado · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 35

I find more challenging approaches clears out the riff raff.

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

I'm not saying that climbing gyms are the problem, but rather climbing gyms have enabled LOTS of people to learn to climb in a safe environment and so the number of people now heading outdoors is greatly increased. The problem from there is two-fold.

1) Anytime you increase the number of people in a given situation you are bound to have more outliers and people that don't conform and do what is normal or expected. 

2) The climbers coming out of the gym (I'm one of them... sort of) have been able to learn how to sport climb without the usual need to have a guide or mentor teach them what to do. So they show up to the crag and treat it like the gym. My gym just has stuff scattered everywhere, especially in the lead climbing area. Music is blaring, etc. So, people move outdoors and act the same. And why wouldn't they, its what they're used to, that's the way that climbing is for them. 

I don't think people are trying to act like idiots. It's just the natural system that long-time climbers are used to, has broken down and largely does not exist anymore. I'm older (41) and started climbing when I was 33 so although my first experience was in they gym, I'm well past my phase of thinking that I'm hot *&%# and keep things pretty chill.  I also had a friend and mentor that I went with outside, soon after I started climbing, who taught me how to do things the right way. 

Mark Says · · Aspen, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 395
mediocre wrote:

What did McDonalds do?

They changed the fries. Everything went to shit when they changed the oil.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

Climbing is highly popular today. Especially among those with more than average income and education. They are young, (seemingly) well educated, have good income, thus they do have no respect.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 174
Pavel Burov wrote:

They are young, (seemingly) well educated, have good income, thus they do have no respect.

Amazing.  

Can you find a broader brush?

John Barritt · · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,045
mediocre wrote:

What did McDonalds do?

They created a "generation of impatience"

And the fry thing, there's probably some vegan blame in there but that's a tangent for another day........ ;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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