I've benefited so much from MP forums on injury recovery and prevention I thought I might try and give a little back. I've been struggling through medial epicondylitis (golfer's elbow) in my left elbow and lateral tendonitis (tennis elbow) in both arms. From what I've come to understand about elbow tendon injuries, there are two distinct conditions that are often confused for the same condition. Tendonitis is an inflammation of a tendon from overuse or an acute trauma, whereas, tendonosis is a degredation of tendon tissues from stresses that produced accumulated damage without proper recovery/repair. This article on the NCIB website has some really good information for those of us suffering from tendonosis injuries (medial and lateral). https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3658379/
Of particular note,
"Mechanical loading of tendon tissue is anabolic by upregulating collagen gene expression and increasing synthesis of collagen proteins peaking 24 hours after exercise and remaining elevated for up to 70 to 80 hours. However, exercise also degrades collagen proteins. This results in a net loss of collagen 24 to 36 hours after training, followed by a net gain in collagen. Thus, a restitution time interval between exercise bouts is critical for the tissue to adapt and avoid a net catabolic situation. The tissue’s adaptive factors are linked to tenocytes, extracellular matrix, and nerve receptors."
Total rest is necessary in the beginning of recovery. However, all good rehab programs require a gradual reintroduction of exercise. The above makes a good case for avoiding climbing two days in a row during rehab. Probably even a good idea for us newbies who are still building strength in our tendons to avoid strenuous climbing or hangboarding back-to-back days.
The article also advocates eccentric exercises (multiple sets, 10-15 reps) and the principle that "proximal stability is needed to promote distal mobility." In other words, just because you hurt your elbow doesn't mean that's where the problem started. Shoulder and scapular exercises are recommended in the article to keep your kinetic chain intact and functioning properly. They have a list of recommended exercises that I have found to be super helpful.
Cheers,
Devin