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Ice and mixed climbing- Scarpa Phantom Tech or Lasportiva G5


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Christopher Martin · · Babylon, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Title says it all:

Ice and mixed climbing- Scarpa Phantom Tech or Lasportiva G5

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 983

Yes

JonasMR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 8

On the contrary, I would say 'no'.

jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,139

Whatever one fits your foot the best. I use the Techs and swear by them for what it's worth to you. 

Christopher Martin · · Babylon, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

jon, any issues with the wrap around zipper?

jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,139

None for me and I have had them since the first season they were out. Took me a few days to get used to them, then wasn't even an afterthought. 

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

+1 for Phantom Techs. They're the most comfortable climbing boots I've ever worn. I do kind of question their durability with their lightweight/soft  soles though.  I have one full season in mine with no signs of wear, so we'll see ,,,

Max Forbes · · Vermont & Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 114

Yes! 

In all seriousness both boots are pretty comparable on paper. I've heard a few reports of issues with the BOA breaking on the G5. If you have the opportunity to try both on, buy what fits. When your comparing something that's so similar side by side, the difference in performance is going to come based on fit and comfort. 

luke Lydiard · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 754

If your feet are the shape of Indiana then you should go with the Scarpas, otherwise get the G5s.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 162

For those of you running Phantom Techs/Guides, how do you size them compared to your street shoe size?

I am a size 10.5 street shoe, which should translate to a size 44 Euro.  For a variety of reasons, I went with a 44.5 Phantom Guide, and I am second-guessing that choice.  The Scarpa website recommends 0.5-1 oversize for mountain boots.  I find that the fit varies, probably with the size of my foot depending on elevation, time of day, etc.  I definitely get heel lift sometimes, but it seems to be more of a function of how tight I lace them than anything else, and proper/tight lacing seems to resolve the lift.

Anyway, just curious what other people have found works for them.

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 28

Kyle,

I can't comment on the guides sizing specifically but I've got some 6,000s and I went a half size bigger.  I agree with you on lacing... I typically run them looser for the approach but can crank them down to be precise for ice.  I think that on a big mountain with lots of hiking I could maybe go a half size bigger but honestly I just haven't run into swelling issues or the need for more socks so far.  I would rather not size a full size larger if it leads to sloppiness.  I've never had the oh my feet have swollen and my boots are too tight however, i've definitely had the heel lift and blisters experience.  

TLDR: Half size up works for me.  I prioritize stopping heel lift, as long as your toes aren't getting crunched etc you should be good to go.

Chris C. · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 266

You really should just try them on. If you don’t have a store in person, buy them from an online retailer with a good return policy. Start with whatever size you normally wear and go from there. For Sportiva boots, I’ve found that I am the same size in Nikes or a half size up.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 162

Chris, no doubt trying a bunch of sizes is the right thing to do.  However, in my experience, it's not just a matter of walking around in the store (where they might feel fine), but wearing them on a long day with an approach and seeing how they behave.  I was just curious about what other people have found and thought a little conversation would be good.

I wear my 3-season boots (Scarpa Charmoz) in size 44, because I wear them with a much thinner sock and don't front point all day in them, so they can fit a lot more snug.

If anybody has a size 44 pair of Phantom Guides or Techs that they want to loan me for a weekend of abuse on ice and mixed, I'd love to borrow them. :)

Christopher Martin · · Babylon, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks, gonna order both and try on side by side.

Own a pair of nepals 42.5, not super tight but have older phantom 6000s in 43 and they feel tighter than my nepals.

Will try and hold this half size up scheme on the order for scarpa. Sounds like everyone else has pretty much the same experience.

Chris C. · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 266
Christopher Martin wrote:

Thanks, gonna order both and try on side by side.

Own a pair of nepals 42.5, not super tight but have older phantom 6000s in 43 and they feel tighter than my nepals.

Will try and hold this half size up scheme on the order for scarpa. Sounds like everyone else has pretty much the same experience.

Heads up, my Nepals are 42.5 and I had to go with 43 for the G5s. 

Christopher Martin · · Babylon, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Scarpas feel sweet! High fashion

Am a little concerned about the soft sole as well. Feel like I could break off the knobs wth my fingers

Will have g5s on Friday 

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255
Kyle Tarry wrote:

For those of you running Phantom Techs/Guides, how do you size them compared to your street shoe size?

I am a size 10.5 street shoe, which should translate to a size 44 Euro.  For a variety of reasons, I went with a 44.5 Phantom Guide, and I am second-guessing that choice.  The Scarpa website recommends 0.5-1 oversize for mountain boots.  I find that the fit varies, probably with the size of my foot depending on elevation, time of day, etc.  I definitely get heel lift sometimes, but it seems to be more of a function of how tight I lace them than anything else, and proper/tight lacing seems to resolve the lift.

Anyway, just curious what other people have found works for them.

I'm a 10.5 or 11, depending on brand, street shoe and I went with a 44.5 Phantom Tech.  Very happy with the fit, but I've only used them primarily for ice cragging and multi-pitch with shorter approaches.  No long hauls or steep hiking.

I also have a pair of G2 SM's and one of the BOAs failed on me.  I contacted Outdoor Gear Exchange where I bought them and they sent me a free Boa repair kit as BOA has a lifetime warranty.  Took me less than five minutes to fix and I was good as new.  No other problems with the G2 SM BOAs.

Phil Powell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

I’ve got both the G5’s and G2’s. Not had any issue with the boa laces on either so far. I prefer the g5’s To the techs due to them having a stiffer sole. Also heard of durability issues with the tech soles showing major wear very quickly. 

Alex Styp · · Golden, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 75

+1 for techs!

My friend's g5s had a hole wear through the boot material where it rubs the boa closure his first day.

I've used phantom techs since the week they were released for everything from cragging in Ouray to long, long approaches in the Park/Cody/Hyalite and they show almost no sign of wear. Soles are great!

Go with fit first,but if both work I'd pick techs myself. I wear a 46 in Techs,a 45.5 in old Phantom Guides, a 45 in all other SCARPA products, a 44.5/45 in Sportiva, and 45-46 in street shoes depending on the last.

-A

luke Lydiard · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 754

I have a pair of used Batura 2.0s in 44.0 if anybody is interested. $250.

Doug Hutchinson · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 95
Christopher Martin wrote:

Any issues with the wrap around zipper?

I wasn't crazy about it at first and had to pull pretty hard to move the zipper pull. I lubed it with a zipper lube and it works fine now. I still fear there being some issue with it after a few years of use. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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