Is this acceptable pas


Original Post
Nicole Knight · · Port Murray NJ · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 50

I have seen a ton of different ways to secure your self when building top rope anchors on a cliff edge. Would the following be acceptable? Attach the  static rope to the first tree that you will be using to make anchor system. After attaching to first tree attach yourself to that single line with atc and prusik backup (as if rappelling)  so that you can move along the line. Proceed to cliff make bhk/ place dynamic rope . Come back up unclip and finish next anchor point on another tree. Reattach with atc/prusik if you need to make more adjustments near edge etc.

Heavy on the J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

This would work fine, but might feel a little awkward and inefficient. 

Consider this option: Throw one end of your dynamic rope around a tree and tie off with a bowline (or figure 8). Take a guess at how much slack you need and go into the rope on a clove hitch. Then move out to the cliff edge to build your anchor, adjusting the clove hitch as necessary. Once you get your anchor built, clip the middle of your dynamic rope through the master point, walk back away from the cliff, untie, and toss the end of your dynamic rope. This is a nice simple way to move around freely but still offer some fall protection. Your primary protection is your ability to not fall off the top of a cliff.

Robert Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 116

Something I was taught that is a little easier than what OP describes: On the first tree, make a bowline on a bight, ensuring that the "loose" strand is long enough to reach the edge. Tether to the loose strand (tie a knot at the end) with an autoblock, toss enough rope for the master point over the edge, and then do a bowline or figure eight on the other anchor point. Then make the master point.

Adam Fleming · · Moab, Utah · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 303
Nicole Knoght wrote:

I have seen a ton of different ways to secure your self when building top rope anchors on a cliff edge. Would the following be acceptable? Attach the  static rope to the first tree that you will be using to make anchor system. After attaching to first tree attach yourself to that single line with atc and prusik backup (as if rappelling)  so that you can move along the line. Proceed to cliff make bhk/ place dynamic rope . Come back up unclip and finish next anchor point on another tree. Reattach with atc/prusik if you need to make more adjustments near edge etc.

That's a fine way to do it, though a grigri works better.  Before you begin, tie a knot (close the system) somewhere along the line to serve as a backup if you want do it by the book.  Tie another catastrophe knot before going hands-free in case the grigri or prusik backup fails.  A good way to make your anchor close to equalized is to hang a weight (the dynamic rope, a pack) off the masterpoint and use a clove hitch on your second anchor leg for adjustability.  

The knots may be a little overkill for some, but I think it's good to recommend them since we're in the beginner climber forum.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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