Shagg Crag - 2nd bolt hanger missing for Shaggin Wagon?


Original Post
Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 38

Anyone know why a bolt hanger is missing (just the hangers, the bolts are still there) from Shaggin Wagon at Shagg Crag? We were up there 9/15 and 9/16 and for some reason it's missing the 2nd hanger below the perma draws. (Might also be one missing from What About Bob but I'm less sure about that one - there's a bolt screw jutting out between the existing 1st hanger and the 1st perma draw) This creates a shitty situation for the climber no matter how you end up stick clipping the route. If you clip only the first bolt hanger then you have a runout to the permadraw that will 100% result in ground fall. If you stick clip the permadraw (doesn't matter if you also clip the one remaining bolt hanger) then you introduce a big back swing if the climber falls off the throw to the gaston, potentially smashing into one of the several boulders behind the start, and/or the belayer. The bolt itself appears fine so it's really unclear only the hanger was removed.

Will McFarland · · Lebanon, NH · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 279

My guess is that people swinging out loosened the hangers and they fell off.  Easy to fix, just buy a couple of stainless hangers and wrench them on with a 9/16" stainless hex nut..

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,901

Sounds like they need to be replaced with glue-ins.

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 38

Yah I would have happily replaced it if we'd had any gear on us (which we didn't) but we also didn't know if it was being removed for something like corrosion.

Will McFarland · · Lebanon, NH · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 279

Those bolts are fine, they just need hangers and a lock nut or a glued regular nut.

Greg Kuchyt · · Richmond, VT · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 895
Will McFarland wrote:

My guess is that people swinging out loosened the hangers and they fell off.  Easy to fix, just buy a couple of stainless hangers and wrench them on with a 9/16" stainless hex nut..

Unless they are Fixe wedge bolts and then they'll require a 10mm metric nut; a 9/16" nut will cross-thread.

Will McFarland · · Lebanon, NH · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 279

They appear to be non-Fixe 3/8 stainless wedges.  

Greg Kuchyt · · Richmond, VT · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 895
Will McFarland wrote:

They appear to be non-Fixe 3/8 stainless wedges.  

Cool. I only mention it because I have been burned by this when doing bolt replacement work with spinners that never tighten down. I couldn't figure out why my tools for 3/8" wedge bolt removal weren't working until I realized the thread pitch on the 3/8" Fixe wedges is still 10mm x 1.5mm.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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