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Footwear for climbing in cold


Original Post
Josh Rappoport · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 1

I am headed to Canada for a multi-pitch (7 pitches, 5.10a crux) and it is meant to be a bit cold (30F in the AM going up to about 55F)

I am concerned about footwear


I have three options:

My approach shoes (scarpa.com/zen-pro)

My normal climbing shoes, which I wear without socks (fiveten.com/us/moccasym-red)

An old pair of climbing shoes that are big enough to wear with socks (sportiva.com/tarantulace.html)


I think if I wear my normal climbing shoes without socks my feet will get very cold

I am not sure that I can really do 7 pitches up to 5.10a including slabs and crimps with approach shoes


Advice/thoughts?


THANKS!!!


Josh

lukeweiss · · St. Johnsbury, VT · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 30

I think the socked tarantualces are the best bet. You get the stiffness and stickiness of the climbing shoe, but aren't constantly distracted by how cold you are. 

acrophobe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

In addition to wearing the climbing shoes with socks, take an old pair of thick wool socks, cut off the upper portion, and wear them over your ankles.  If you plan the cut carefully, they will unfurl pretty far over the top of your climbing shoes.

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 660

I've worn some old high top climbing shoes (LaSportiva Enduro) with thin wool dress socks and they worked well in the Bugaboos and Alps.  

Brandon.Phillips · · Portola, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 55

I'd go for climbing shoes with socks. That's my go to for cold days.  Stay hydrated, it will help keep your feet warm.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 380

Mox with sox!

Seth Monteleone · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 46

option 4, don't climb where the air hurts.

Everett · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 10
Seth Monteleone wrote:

option 4, don't climb where the air hurts.

Option 5, climb anyway and just realize that pain is stupidity entering the body.

Josh Rappoport · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 1

Thanks so much for all the helpful replies everyone!

The Tarantualaces are big enough to wear with some thinner wool socks I have, the 5.10 mocs not so much...

Josh

Alec Entress · · Portland, OR · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

I'll bet if you put socks on with the Moccs they'll be big enough in about... 3 pitches. That's the great thing about Moccs... the stretch never stops. 

Eric and Lucie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 140
acrophobe wrote:

In addition to wearing the climbing shoes with socks, take an old pair of thick wool socks, cut off the upper portion, and wear them over your ankles.  If you plan the cut carefully, they will unfurl pretty far over the top of your climbing shoes.

This ^

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 476

What aspect is the rock? That greatly changes how it feels, a south facing route in frigid cold is ok with the rock being warmed. You're mainly just insulating against the cold air temp in that case.

A north to NW aspect that gets no sun the rock will just suck heat right out of the soles of climbing shoes. I've climbed a north aspect line while it was snowing in approach shoes, with the foam between me and the rock my feet were fine. My partner with thick wool socks and mythos couldn't feel their toes three pitches in and we bailed. 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205
acrophobe wrote:

In addition to wearing the climbing shoes with socks, take an old pair of thick wool socks, cut off the upper portion, and wear them over your ankles.  If you plan the cut carefully, they will unfurl pretty far over the top of your climbing shoes.

This is excellent advice.

Josh Rappoport · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 1

Thanks so much everyone!

I wore the Tarantulaces with wool socks and it worked perfectly!  Put a hand warmer in my chalk bag and used my belay gloves

We went with Plan B which was south facing. The sun made a HUGE difference  

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 585

I know your climb is over, but if it's useful in the future, I find a pair of over-sized insulated booties well worth the weight to slip them on over climbing shoes at belays.

Nivel Egres · · New York, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 130

Boreal makes a Ninja with a built in insulated sleeve. They also make a lace up insulated boot.

jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,193

One of my tricks. 


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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