Ama Dablam in Spring?

I'm looking for input regarding climbing Ama Dablam during the Spring. The Spring is typically regarded as a good climbing season in Nepal, but it seems like most operators are working on the 8000M peaks during that time, with Ama Dablam being left for the Fall. Unfortunately for me, Fall is the busiest time of the year work wise, and a Fall climb is unlikely to happen in my foreseeable future.

I know some people still go in the Spring, but I've heard logistics are not as good. For example, ladder mantinence is not always up to date. Have any of you climbed it or known somebody who has climbed it during the Spring? If so, how was the experience?

Thanks!

Hey Chris,

I climbed Ama Dablam in the autumn but I remember seeing some report online about some guys that went in the Spring. Generally they said it was a lot drier, some sections without fixed rope (the easiest ones), warmer then autumn and no crowds. YOu may have difficulty finding porters though, I remember I had a hard time finding a porter to go back to Lukla because they were all carrying stuff for the trekkers.

Thanks for the response, Cissa! Do you happen to remember if the route was in condition for them to summit? 

Apparently it was, but like I said, a lot drier. The route was fixed up to about C3 but from there it's a snow ramp not that steep so they did summit. In any case, if you are going free, this is a definately a route to have a lot of fun in if you like mixed climbing, especially between C2 and C3 there's world class mixed above 6000m. Superb!

Thanks a lot for the info, Cissa!!

Hey Chris,

What you've said sounds about right. 4 of us attempted it guided in spring a few years back with a not so reputable outfit, though that was reflected in the price. Ropes were sorted to just past camp 2 by our guides and don't think any other guided groups were there that season. There were two solo pairs as well but no one got must further than C2, partly due to the weather, so don't know about the ropes beyond that. I wouldn't be depending on any maintenance