Longs Peak


Original Post
Andy Matthews · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Hey, I'm from the Midwest and am looking to tackle longs peak in the near future. What's the best suggested guide book for Longs? Thanks for all the help! I sincerely appreciate it!

abe r · · Boise, ID · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 10

Gillet's Book, MP, or hell, even 14ers.com

Jonathan Awerbuch · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 38

The new RMNP guide is by Rossiter and it's quite good.

https://www.fixedpin.com/products/rocky-mountain-national-park

The best resource will depend on what route you want to do, and when. Keyhole route in August, and you can just follow the hordes. North face in December and you might want to know where you're going. 14ers.com and the Longs Peak USFS site are good resources for the 3rd class routes. You can also google for some good trip reports with photos.

Which route are you thinking, and what season?

Andy Matthews · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Hey Johnathan, I was looking at the keyhole route around the 12th of October but the more I google the more I'm worried about the weather at that time of year... thoughts?

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 871

 Umm seriously. You are using Google for weather three weeks from now?  Google doesn't know shit about weather forecast. If you have the luxury, check the weather seven days ahead of time and then four days ahead of time and then 48 hours ahead of time and then 24. That time a year you could have extremely dry perfect weather or a blizzard.

Andy Matthews · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

People are becoming prudes on this site. Lol no I wasn't looking for the specific forecast for the date. But rather the past years and what October looks like for that route. From what I've gathered it's a crap shoot in October and how that's when the "seasons" change. It could be bare or it could be covered in snow and ice. Sorry for not specifying my previous statement more clearly. But do appreciate the feedback.

Jonathan Awerbuch · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 38
Greg D wrote:

That time a year you could have extremely dry perfect weather or a blizzard.

Agreed. Here are some good resources for conditions as you get closer:

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=40.25542466812209&lon=-105.61674356460571#.Wbk-89OGOYV

https://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/longspeak.htm

https://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/longs_peak_conditions_report.htm

Some amount of ice/verglas and snow is certain in October. You can fall to your death from the Keyhole route (it's been done plenty). You can always go up to the Boulder Field and check it out. You can safely make it to the Keyhole itself in most conditions, and it's beautiful up there. 

If you decide to go for the summit, just be willing to turn around any time you or your partner(s) feel uncomfortable. Don't push it. People have asked for advice or conditions on this forum, and then died on their outing.

 Kahtoola microspikes could be a good little bit of insurance in case of freezing rain.

Andy Matthews · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks for the advice Johnathan I appreciate it!

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 451
Andy Matthews wrote:

Hey Johnathan, I was looking at the keyhole route around the 12th of October but the more I google the more I'm worried about the weather at that time of year... thoughts?

For Longs, you should worry about the weather all year long!   (Flippant, but true)  

gspup · · Sweet Ridge, CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5

Turn right at Chasm Junction and left at the Keyhole, return the way you came. That's all the guide you need. 

physnchips · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

Andy, you're getting a lot of dissent here, and it's likely for good reason. Midwest tourists who have never been on a 14er die on Longs and Maroon Peak all the time (two of the more popular 14ers). If you haven't done any 14ers I encourage you not to start with Longs, in addition to the 3rd class terrain you have no idea how your body will react to the altitude no matter how fit you are. You may be totally fine and live to tell the tale, but even class1 14ers are no joke (well Sherman kind of is, and even then people still get altitude sick and need rescue) because weather and other factors out of your control (and potentially beneath your experience to estimate) will kill. I know at least one instance of an experienced mountaineer (summited Denali) dying on a 14er.

In addition to 14ers.com, check out Alan Arnette's website http://www.alanarnette.com/co14ers/longspeak.php (check out the video and photos). FYI a lot of folks have died on Capitol Peak this year (arguably the hardest, though I've never done it just hearsay), most of them on the downclimb; a good piece of general advice is to constantly turn around and note your downclimb (maybe even take a picture) so you don't get lost on your way back.

All that said, if the weather is good and you end up going have a great time!

Andy Matthews · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks man I appreciate the advice and website source.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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