Looking for cracks, 5.8-5.10, Boulder area


Original Post
John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 20

I'm looking for cracks for doing laps in the front range, Golden to Boulder, 5.8-5.10 preferred.  I'd be setting up a fixed line and microtraxing TR laps.  Yosemite style highly desirable but I'd be happy with anything.  Doesn't have to be 5 stars (in fact, better if it's not so I don't get in other folks' way).

Ideas?!

mike c · · golden · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,015

Castle Rock. Skunk crack, curving crack, Baily's crack, coffin crack, by gully, cussing  crack, black crack, athletes feat, country club crack...... All wholesome cracks!

Yaroslav Lototskyy · · Longmont · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 35

Check out Crack Land on Third Tier of Boulder Canyon / Avalon. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/crack-land/105810466

Not a best routes there but place is usually not busy and there are several cracks in 5.8-5.10 range. Not sure they can be TR but at least if you lead one then you can TR another off the same anchor. There is also bolted chimney you can practice and one crack with short section of #4 size both sharing the same anchor.

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,748
John RB wrote:

I'm looking for cracks for doing laps in the front range, Golden to Boulder, 5.8-5.10 preferred.  I'd be setting up a fixed line and microtraxing TR laps.  Yosemite style highly desirable but I'd be happy with anything.  Doesn't have to be 5 stars (in fact, better if it's not so I don't get in other folks' way).

Ideas?!

So when you say "Yosemite style" do you mean friendly size (finger-hand) cracks that are sustained with no good feet? Or do you mean heinous flare/offwidth/chimney with no good feet? Either way you'll be very limited if you want walk-to-the-top easy setups (unless your fixed line is really long). You can make some local cracks more Yosemite-like by ignoring all footholds except smears and the crack itself.

When will you be doing this? Dawn on a weekday is very different from planning it on a Saturday midmorning.

Is Turkey Rocks too far (assuming weekday climbing...too crowded on a weekend)? 

John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 20
Greg Barnes wrote:

So when you say "Yosemite style" do you mean friendly size (finger-hand) cracks that are sustained with no good feet? Or do you mean heinous flare/offwidth/chimney with no good feet? Either way you'll be very limited if you want walk-to-the-top easy setups (unless your fixed line is really long). You can make some local cracks more Yosemite-like by ignoring all footholds except smears and the crack itself.

When will you be doing this? Dawn on a weekday is very different from planning it on a Saturday midmorning.

Is Turkey Rocks too far (assuming weekday climbing...too crowded on a weekend)? 

By "yosemite style" I mean finger-to-hand, sustained, no feet.  I'm happy to ignore feet to get this effect.  And I can climb early mid-week to avoid climbing at popular times.

Turkey Rocks is 2:11 from my house, which is a bit too far for a practical day trip.  I'd really prefer to stay within an hour, so BoCan, Flatirons, Eldo, Clear Creek, Table, Ft Collins, Estes, and that may be it?!

dennis.s · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0
John RB wrote:

By "yosemite style" I mean finger-to-hand, sustained, no feet.  I'm happy to ignore feet to get this effect.  And I can climb early mid-week to avoid climbing at popular times.

Turkey Rocks is 2:11 from my house, which is a bit too far for a practical day trip.  I'd really prefer to stay within an hour, so BoCan, Flatirons, Eldo, Clear Creek, Table, Ft Collins, Estes, and that may be it?!

Seeing as you mentioned Estes... Cackle Crack 5.8, Hagakure (starts with 5.11 fingers to 5.12 slab), and Yosemite crack 5.9- (a true splitter, good hands to a little offwidth) on Hens and chickens at lumpy ridge... very easy to set up a top rope

Also highly recommend finger crack on little twin owls at lumpy, slightly annoying to set up a top rope but worth it. 5.11 fingers with shit feet. Real good stuff. I usually set up a few directionals cause it does slant a bit.

There is also Conan's Gonads on lower twin owls with easy access. 

A bit more involved would be doing stuff on twin owls proper, wolf's tooth, tiger's tooth, crack of fear. Easy scramble to the top but need to know where to throw the rope down. ~80m line does the trick and ya get some real good offwidth action

I live in estes and do a lot of top rope soloing in the area and those are where I go for running laps on cracks. I go in the evenings and never run into anybody at those spots. 

Alex Zachrel · · Morgantown, West Virginia · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 30

"finger crack 5.9" at nip and tuck, and "aid crack 5.10d" at cob rock in boulder canyon are perfect for doing top rope solo laps

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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