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Considering a warm climbing vacation this winter?

Original Post
John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392

EDIT: Oct 29, 2021.   The Cayman Islands have announced that their Covid quarantine requirements will end November 20, and so visiting and climbing are again possible.

Cayman Brac is the perfect spot for a winter climbing trip.  Great climbing, easy access, no crowds, no crime, English-speaking and all of it at a mellow "Island Time" pace.  The climbing guide is free and on-line, along with lots of other information at: Climbcaymanbrac.com

There is also a downloadable guide for your phone at https://gunksapps.com/ 

While most of the climbing is "normal" sport climbing, where you start at the bottom and lower back down from the anchors, for those who want more adventure, check out the climbs at The Point.   The climb in the video is What's the Point? (9+) and is on the North-East Point of the island.  Not the hardest climb there (actually the easiest) but certainly has an impressive position.

Go to full screen for the best views and enjoy the music.  

Several new routes went up in the last two years, so the total route count is now 128 with most being in the "sweet" range of 10 to 12.   (There are still a few open projects in the 13 range; get 'em before they're gone!)  The rock is gently overhanging and bolted for "people on vacation" with titanium bolts.

So where's Cayman Brac?  It's in the Caribbean, just south of Cuba.  With the opening of the border, airlines are putting on flights in anticipation of "pent-up demand", but it may be a few months before they get back to normal frequencies.   

Discovered by Christopher Columbus and claimed for Spain, it's now a British Commonwealth.  English-speaking with incredibly friendly people and almost zero crime.  

My favorite story of crime in the Brac: My friend Henry left a six-pack of Coronas on the passenger seat of his car with the windows open and left to shop (nobody locks their car there).  When he came back one bottle was gone but there was a note: "I owe you one."  About two weeks later he parked in the same lot, and when he came back he found a full Corona on the seat and a note: "Thanks."

 

Dixon's, Iguana and Valentines Walls have stalactites, tufas and wild flowstone with routes from 5.10 to 5.13.   Pictured is "Carpe Stalactite" and yes, you actually bear-hug it and step out there.  More photos at https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106458273/cayman-brac but the compete guide, with many, many more photos, is at Climbcaymanbrac.com

Cpt. E · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 95

Sweet video.  I saw a sea turtle from that lower belay that looked like it was the size of a small car.  Going back some day.  Dixon's Wall is cool.  What was the name of that fruit growing on the trees?

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392
Cpt. E wrote:

Sweet video.  I saw a sea turtle from that lower belay that looked like it was the size of a small car.  Going back some day.  Dixon's Wall is cool.  What was the name of that fruit growing on the trees?

Which trees?  There's mango, papaya, coconut, naseberry, tamarind, ackee, pomegranate, etc.

Cpt. E · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 95

I'm not sure, but I believe we only ate the inside.

I harvested a few coconuts as well, I believe right out of the front yard.

ASid · · SF, CA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 15

Cool stuff!

I lived in Grand Cayman when I was younger for a few years but never made it to the other islands. I haven't been back since, but will keep this in mind if & when we decide to make a trip out there.

Are you a CO local, John? How often do you make it out to the Brac?

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392
ASid wrote:

Are you a CO local, John? How often do you make it out to the Brac?

Yup, live here in CO.  I get to the Brac at least once a year (for 20 years), usually stay about 6 weeks.

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Amazing imagery in that video--and very well edited with some unique perspectives/compositions (I say, as a still photographer). Just, wow! At the risk of starting a fire here, I fully understand the drone hate on some threads but, man, that drone footage is what makes the video! This place just got added to my bulging bucket list.

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392
Daniel Joder wrote:

Amazing imagery in that video--and very well edited with some unique perspectives/compositions (I say, as a still photographer). Just, wow! At the risk of starting a fire here, I fully understand the drone hate on some threads but, man, that drone footage is what makes the video! This place just got added to my bulging bucket list.

Like every tool, drones can be mis-used.  One of my favorite quotes, from Ani Difranco: "Every tool is a weapon if you hold it right."

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Well stated, John. 

Mort · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2004 · Points: 20

Wow, I was blown away by some of those perspectives.  I put up about a half dozen climbs on the wall to the right of their route (as you look from the ocean) and spent  two months down there over a few trips, but this video really captures the big picture.  After missing the Brac for ten years, I went back about 2.5 years ago and had a blast on all the new routes.  Can't wait to go back.  Maybe next year.  

Wilson Rougier · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Was Cayman Brac affected by the recent hurricanes? Are folks still planning trips?

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392

All the hurricanes so far this season have passed hundreds of miles North, so there's been no damage and people are planning trips.  

Mike Grainger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

I've booked one of John's apartments for the nights of Jan 11 to 17.  At this point I don't have anyone coming with me and would be happy to have a partner(s) join me to climb and share costs.  The apartment sleeps 4.  

PM me if interested!

marsenault · · Randolph, Maine · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 0

Cayman Brac is a gem! Can't say enough about this place.  About to embark on my third trip down there to John's place this winter in late Jan/early Feb.  For me, these trips have been the perfect vacation to escape the cold and snow.  So let's start - the island is quiet with super friendly locals who remember you year to year.  If you're looking for touristy, all-inclusive resorts, manicured beaches, 5-star dining, and obnoxious tourists, this is not your place.  There's only 1 beach and I think I've only ever seen 1 other group at that beach.  The climbing is fantastic.  John and Co. have done a great job safely equipping these climbs with bullet-proof Ti bolts.  The routes are just ridiculously fun, great exposure, cool features (think caves, stalactites, flowstone, bands of Caymanite, fossils, etc) - sport climbing on the edge of the earth!  We usually have the cliffs on the entire island to ourselves.  I think in a total of 18-20 days climbing on the island, I've seen 3 other parties.  John's house is also highly recommended, it's a great deal, with the basic amenities you need, walking distance to several climbs, quiet and comfortable (the stick clip and static lines are a nice added bonus).  Oh and if you're a diver, Cayman Brac is world-class (but you probably already knew that).  We usually dive in the morning either off one of the dive boats or from shore (if the waves allow) and climb in the afternoon and evening.  The wall dives are out of this world with super clear water at 100' with a 2000'+ dropoff into the dark blue abyss - surreal! If you're not a diver, you should learn to get more out of your trip to Brac (there are a few decent areas to snorkel if the seas are calm though)

Mike Grainger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks for the ringing endorsement of Cayman Brac - I'm feeling even better about my decision now!  

Yes, I am a certified diver and definitely intend to take advantage of the diving opportunities.  Do you have any comments on pros and cons of the local dive operators?

If, in a worse case scenario, I am down there on my own for some of the time, are there areas that could work for top rope soloing?

I'm particularly interested in routes below 5.11.

Thanks!

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,577

Me and the wife are going in early January. Psyched to check it out! 

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,577

Went with the wife in January. One of the best climbing vacations I have ever had. Super chill place, and best of all we had the crags to ourselves everyday!

http://fresnoclimber.blogspot.com/2019/01/cayman-brac-climbing-trip.html

Ezra Ellis · · Hotlanta · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

Cory
That was a wonderful write up
Thank you !!!!

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392

Ardian P gets the second ascent of new 12a at the Yogi Wall.

Eric Berghorn · · Calistoga,CA · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 968

Hey John ! Any news about the after-effect of the Earthquake? Hope everyone’s safe after the shake up ? Whew !!  7.7 magnitude only eighty miles from the island?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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