Draw Broke at Area 51, NRG


Original Post
Mark Paulson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 80

Just a heads up-

My buddy clipped and hung at the 6th bolt of Made in the Shade at the end of the day yesterday.  After about 10 seconds, the BD spectra dogbone in place there snapped.  We didn't go back up, but it looked from the ground like this was the only bolt on the route (besides the first) that _wasn't_ equipped with a chain permadraw, which seems kind of weird.  It's possible we just couldn't see it, but it sure looked like just a bolt.  I contacted NRAC and put a condition report on the route description, but figured this might be a good place to post as well.  Also, this should serve as a cautionary tale for people leaving spectra draws in locations where there is rock contact, and anyone climbing on in situ soft draws- spectra is not a good choice for these applications, and even nylon should be inspected regularly (that dumb extended draw on Depth Charge is well on its way to being sawn in half).

Russ Keane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 140

Ew!

sherb · · Loveland, Ohio & Wheat Ridg... · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 60

Glad you posted this. My most heated MP debate was about people who leave personal draws on the route indefinitely, blocking bolts, then get mad when others clean up their mess.

Luke Bertelsen · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 2,791

I just like the phrase 'blocking bolts'.

I didn't send because I got bolt blocked..... this will be my next no send excuse.

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549
sherb wrote:

Glad you posted this. My most heated MP debate was about people who leave personal draws on the route indefinitely, blocking bolts, then get mad when others clean up their mess.

Hey Ana Tine! 

Are you proposing stealing project draws again?

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,470
sherb wrote:

Glad you posted this. My most heated MP debate was about people who leave personal draws on the route indefinitely, blocking bolts, then get mad when others clean up their mess.

No one leaves draws on the 5.7s. 

Alexander Blum · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143
sherb wrote:

Glad you posted this. My most heated MP debate was about people who leave personal draws on the route indefinitely, blocking bolts, then get mad when others clean up their mess.

There's etiquette involved in this - I don't know if I totally agree with the system as it stands, but it's "just the way it is". If the route is hard and steep-ish, and there are sport climbing draws with thick nylon dogbones on the bolts, in good condition, they should probably be left alone. The exact grade is debatable, but let's say somewhere around 12- and higher. If the draws are beat up, faded, or just in poor condition, it makes sense to take them down. If draws are left up for more than maybe a month, then sure - they should be taken down, or replaced with perma draws if it's a route that is perpetually projected.

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 13,267

When will folks learn not to leave draws in place!!! Perhaps Darwin will cull out the weak.

jarthur · · Westminster, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 290
Benjamin Chapman wrote:

When will folks learn not to leave draws in place!!! Perhaps Darwin will cull out the weak.

Never, I'll never learn. Next asanine question.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530

The only lesson here is that you shouldn't blindly trust fixed gear.

Mark Paulson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 80
sherb wrote:

Glad you posted this. My most heated MP debate was about people who leave personal draws on the route indefinitely, blocking bolts, then get mad when others clean up their mess.

Really, not my point, and it's not my intention to start up a tired project draw debate.  This is a very overhung 12d in an area with lots of donated "project" and perma-draws.  Also, this route has chains on every bolt except, randomly, the 6th, which had a donated draw on it.  The intention of my post was to warn anyone getting on the route before NRAC has a chance to perma the bolt, and to remind folks that spectra is particularly susceptible to abrasion and is a poor choice for any instance where the dogbone goes over an edge or when the bolt-side biner pinches the dogbone against the rock (which is what happened in this case).  I've contacted NRAC, and it sounds like someone will be hanging a chain or cable draw in the next week or two.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply