Oz Dirtbag - recommend a van friendly crag!


Original Post
Sandra Dy · · Utah, Moab · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 43

Hi I climb 5'10s on trad lead and am looking for local recommended crags with van accessibility/parking this october.

Are there any one off fees I can pay for all around van paeking at national parks? Car parking fees may affect my survival funds as I won't have much so happy for any recommendations. 

Dylan Pike · · SLC, UT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 35

Indian creek

City of rocks

Ibex (might be difficult to find partners)

John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 4,737

You can camp for free on most BLM or US Forest Service land. 

You may not want to leave your camp set up at a free site while you drive away and go climb. Pay campgrounds tend to feel more secure and it might seem safer to leave your camping equipment in one of those pay sites. But we camp for free all the time.

National parks are pretty expensive to travel through, it can cost $25 for three days of access. Red Rock is not a national park but they charge $7 per day to drive through and park. If you buy an $80 "America the Beautiful" pass, that is good for one year of access to most federal lands - much better than paying $25 at every national park. This pass does not cover campground fees.

Sandra Dy · · Utah, Moab · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 43

Thanks so much for that info guys. 

I don't have a tent just a van with a bed in the back. Will that still apply to my van? I'll be in moab for a crack school so will go from there. Not sure if I should get a tent and leave my van out....

Dylan Pike · · SLC, UT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 35

If you are living in the van, you will most likely drive to the crag, unless you hitch a ride with someone camping near you. Im imagining Indian Creek, where most people camp together and it is easy to find partners. If you are interested in sport climbing, check out lime kiln canyon. You can sleep in your van next to the trailhead to the crag.

Sandra Dy · · Utah, Moab · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 43

Perfecto - thanks so much!!! I've found a woman's group also so fingers crossed :) 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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