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Prodigal Sun Beta

Original Post
IcePick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 100

Beta seeking for a roped solo on Prodigal Sun in Zion, I'm just going to jug with a 40L bringing the essentials, food water clothing layers and gear, Don't really wanna bring a portaledge and everything I've read says no good bivy ledges, Plan on two days so I could bivy a night (for the wilderness experience) SO....

couldnt I just lash my ass in on top of P3? I could rough it a night.

also any solid beta on topping out without killing anyone below with boulders would be helpful.


will ar · · San Antonio, TX · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 270

I climbed prodigal sun solo ~10 years ago and had a blast. The ledge at the top of pitch 3 sucks, it's really sloping and unless you have a hammock or something you're constantly going to feel like you're sliding off. How well do you think you're actually going to sleep? I'd rather just climb through the night. I brought a portaledge, but if I did it again I'd either do it in a long day or possibly fix to pitch 3 then jug back up on the second day. That would mean that you don't have to haul, just carry a light daypack when cleaning. I find that jugging with a heavy pack on, even more so when cleaning, sucks.

I don't remember it being difficulty to avoid knocking stuff off at the top unless you're being really careless with your haulbag. I did it in winter and was concerned about scrambling around carrying a haulbag on snow/ice. I ended up running up to flatter ground and fixing a rope, then reclimbing it with a single ascender on the line and the haulbag on my back.

Joe Prescott · · Fort Collins · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 8

Agree with wii ar. Did it several years ago and fixed a few pitches the night before, got there around 4am, jugged and set off. Topped out around midnight. Just had a pack with extra water, food and a little gear.No problem knocking stuff off on the upper low angle stuff.

EJN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 201

Bring a hammock and the ledge on P3 should work. There are some spread out bolts.

Get  a permit to bivy. 

Jug/climb the last pitch with the bag.

Be aware most of the anchors are drilled pins which are less than ideal for upward pull.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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