Lets see you Offwidth racks


Original Post
Joe De Luca · · yucca valley · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 101

Help me get inspired for this season of offwidth climbing post up pictures of your racks nothing smaller than a 3.5 is all I ask.

Matt Kuehl · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,540

 

PatMas · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
Joe De Luca wrote:

Help me get inspired for this season of offwidth climbing post up pictures of your racks nothing smaller than a 3.5 is all I ask.

Is that a Merlin?

Joe De Luca · · yucca valley · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 101

Yes it is the number 9

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10

Most of those look shiny. Use them much? Mine are scratched from bouncing around my tote bin. Screw off widths. :)

Dan Evans · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

Where do you go to place an order for the Merlins? I can't find their website.

Doug G · · Joshua Tree · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

A couple new ones.

Dan Evans · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

Same Doug that works at Nomad Ventures in JT? If so, I remember you showing me the website when I was in the shop talking with you about Big Bros, but couldn't find it the site when I got home. Does it not show up on a browser search?

BrokenChairs BrettC · · Sultan, WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 245
Doug G wrote:

A couple new ones.

Damn son those three cams are probably worth more than my entire rack!  How much did that set you back? Where did you order those number 9's from? They're not VG's right? Sorry I'm no OW gear master. 

Edit: Realized from opening my eyes they're Merlins.  

Fritz N. · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 110

Nothing smaller than a new 5.0 for Dan as he prepares to battle an unnamed desert die-hedral.
 

Including, but not limited to, VG 9 and 12 and a Cleaveland Mountaineering Custom 8.5.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

I realize showing one in actual use is prob unusual for this site, but this is Da Boneyard at Red Rock, 5.10...my favorite OW at Red Rock.  Valley Giant, Triple C4#6's and #5's, double #4's and #3's. Placed it all in one single 220' pitch.  If you like OW...this is one to track down.  Snowflakes will have to burn a few calories to get to it though.  Have to zoom in to see it, but it is all on my waste.

Joe De Luca · · yucca valley · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 101
Doug G wrote:

A couple new ones.

Joe De Luca · · yucca valley · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 101

Why don't you throw your gold big bro in that photo

Doug G · · Joshua Tree · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0
Dan Evans wrote:

Same Doug that works at Nomad Ventures in JT? If so, I remember you showing me the website when I was in the shop talking with you about Big Bros, but couldn't find it the site when I got home. Does it not show up on a browser search?

Yep that's one of my jobs. If you look on Super taco under Valley Giants you will find the contact.

Doug G · · Joshua Tree · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0
Joe De Luca wrote:

Why don't you throw your gold big bro in that photo

Maybe later after you give me a couple beers.

USBRIT Ross · · Keswick Cumbria.UK · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 21,248

I have climbed a few offwidths and providing the crack is within the  large cam sizes it can be attractive to those who are adverse to run outs as pushing a cam ahead of yourself can give one that top rope feeling.  Technology has changed climbing in many ways.

Rob T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 10
Joe De Luca wrote:

Yes it is the number 9

#8, Erick makes an 8, Tom makes a 9(and yes, the 8 is slightly bigger than the 9)

You can email Erick at merlinrockgear@gmail.com if you're interested in the Merlin cams. 

Gavin Towey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

Speaking of big gear I see a lot of large cams and very few big bros.  My impression is that big bros are pretty space/weight/cost efficient for wide stuff, but evidence here suggests that cams are favored.  As someone just about to get into leading OW I'd be interested to hear why you use the gear you use so I can start building my OW rack the right way.

Dan Evans · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80
Gavin Towey wrote:

Speaking of big gear I see a lot of large cams and very few big bros.  My impression is that big bros are pretty space/weight/cost efficient for wide stuff, but evidence here suggests that cams are favored.  As someone just about to get into leading OW I'd be interested to hear why you use the gear you use so I can start building my OW rack the right way.

Im in a similar position as you. I tried the Big Bros out and they weren't as straight forward to place nor as secure as I expected. I also read a few occasions of the leader knocking the Big Bro loose and it sliding 60 ft down the rope and hitting the belayer. I feel like i would much rather just drag up a few large cams and bump them.

Doug G · · Joshua Tree · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Big Bros can be finicky to place but they are cheeper, lighter and more compact.

Push the cams and leave the Big Bro as pro.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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