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Mount Nemo/Milton Crags Beta

Original Post
Adam Blaylock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

I live in Detroit and there is a dearth of real rock nearby. I am planning a day trip to Mount Nemo/Milton crags in a few weeks. Anyone have any mission critical trip beta? 

I understand the routes are pretty chossy and there are a number of restrictions at various crags by the local climbing ethics. My group will be pure sport - no trad gear or experience, and will be bringing a 70m rope. I can onsight RRG 5.9s (Muir & Miller). Any must hit routes? 

David S · · Lewiston, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

Here are some decent guidebook for southern ontario.

Also check with Alpine Club of Canada, Toronto chapter. They spend a ton of time climbing in Bon Echo, Southern Ontario, etc.

Grant Kendrick 1 · · Northampton, Massachusetts · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0
Waiwai Kim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

Plenty of sports routes at Nemo. 70m is more than enough. There are different ways to get down to the bottom of the cliff. Recommend to get a guidebook. If you're going there on the weekend, you could probably get away by asking around. There will be a lot of people climbing there. Curved Wall and Retroland will be the best for 5.9 climber, but you'll be fighting crowd on those sections on weekend. My personal opinion on the grades is that RRG especially Muir Valley is softer than Ontario. Maybe it's because of the traffic, chalk mark, chossiness or personal style.  

drtyner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 45

Post your question at (you will need to sign up to read the forum)

Edit:  Just noticed dasGSA already posted up the link.

David S · · Lewiston, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

BTW....If you haven't already visited MEC (Mountain Equipment Co-op) in Toronto, you should do so! 

The Canadian $$ exchange rate is quite favorable and it's a great store....they probably stock the climbing guides too.

Adam Blaylock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the updates and tips. I'm looking forward to the trip and already acquired the guidebook. MEC is probably a no go this trip, but we'll have to do it soon.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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