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Mount Nemo/Milton Crags Beta


Original Post
Adam Blaylock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

I live in Detroit and there is a dearth of real rock nearby. I am planning a day trip to Mount Nemo/Milton crags in a few weeks. Anyone have any mission critical trip beta? 

I understand the routes are pretty chossy and there are a number of restrictions at various crags by the local climbing ethics. My group will be pure sport - no trad gear or experience, and will be bringing a 70m rope. I can onsight RRG 5.9s (Muir & Miller). Any must hit routes? 

David S · · Niagara Falls, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

Here are some decent guidebook for southern ontario. 

https://www.ontarioclimbing.com/OCGuidebookShop/

https://ontariorockclimbing.com/product/guidebook/

Also check with Alpine Club of Canada, Toronto chapter. They spend a ton of time climbing in Bon Echo, Southern Ontario, etc.

Grant Kendrick 1 · · Northampton, Massachusetts · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

I just visited Mt Nemo for the first time last month while on a road trip visiting family in Hamilton.  There is a lot of route information on a website called "TheCrag" which will give you an idea of what's there, but I would recommend getting a guidebook if you can, as we found the downloaded pages from the website pretty useless in identifying routes and trails while we were there.  Fortunately there were some very friendly locals climbing who shared their guidebook and gave us beta, so we were able to have a productive and fun climbing day.

One piece of advice--the easiest access is to turn left on the trail that runs along the top of the cliff and follow it for for about 10 minutes to the end of the climbing, where there is a pretty obvious descent route.  The guide mentions several gullies as descent routes, but we couldn't identify them from the top and were later told they are fairly sketchy chimney downclimbs that people generally avoid.

There's plenty of bolted routes in a range of grades; everything we did was really fun.  The rock is a little loose in spots, but the area gets a lot of traffic so we found the routes to be pretty solid and clean.  There is a ban on slinging trees at the top, so I think setting topropes or rappel lines is not an option.  We heard good things about other climbing in the vicinity, but only had a day so didn't check out anywhere else.

Have a great trip!



Waiwai Kim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

Plenty of sports routes at Nemo. 70m is more than enough. There are different ways to get down to the bottom of the cliff. Recommend to get a guidebook. If you're going there on the weekend, you could probably get away by asking around. There will be a lot of people climbing there. Curved Wall and Retroland will be the best for 5.9 climber, but you'll be fighting crowd on those sections on weekend. My personal opinion on the grades is that RRG especially Muir Valley is softer than Ontario. Maybe it's because of the traffic, chalk mark, chossiness or personal style.  

drtyner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 45

Post your question at ontarioclimbing.com/ (you will need to sign up to read the forum)

Edit:  Just noticed dasGSA already posted up the link.

David S · · Niagara Falls, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

BTW....If you haven't already visited MEC (Mountain Equipment Co-op) in Toronto, you should do so! seemec.ca ;

The Canadian $$ exchange rate is quite favorable and it's a great store....they probably stock the climbing guides too.

Adam Blaylock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the updates and tips. I'm looking forward to the trip and already acquired the guidebook. MEC is probably a no go this trip, but we'll have to do it soon.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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