My accident in Big Cottonwood - take aways?

David Kerkeslager wrote:

One minor correction for Kurt G.: there's actually one mechanical part in the ClickUp. If you look inside the device where the carabiner goes through, there's a small spring-loaded lever that pushes on the carabiner. This keeps the carabiner from "clicking up" until enough pressure is exerted (i.e. by a fall) to override the spring.

You're right David but i omitted that due to the fact that it's a non essential part of the mechanism.  should that "tongue" fail the device would still engage into lock mode. 

Tim Lutz wrote:

i personally only use hip belay now, while sipping cold brew, single-estate organic coffee

Ahh you got me, i totally forgot that using an alternative to the iPhone of belay devices was hipster. thanks for catching that

Healyje wrote:

I've held FF2 falls on both ATCs and hip belays (sucks relentlessly no matter what).

not possible.  factor 2 falls didn't exist before GriGri's

Tim Lutz wrote:

i personally only use hip belay now, while sipping cold brew, single-estate organic coffee

Sheesh. Aren't you a piece o work?

That cuppa joe is supposed to also be shade grown, bird friendly, fair trade, hand ground beans from a compost friendly paper bag that is post consumer recycled paper certified by.... shit forgot who.

Get with the program, Lutz!

OLH

Brian in SLC wrote:

I've cleaned gobs of routes...some overhanging,  and I rappel with an ATC.  Never lost control of any rappel. 

Please explain why you think this is stupid and the inference that I'm a moron.

I very much think that climbing with an untrustworthy partner and hitting the ground is stupid. If that was you, then you are the lucky moron in question, and you should thank your luck.  Next time, save yourself effort and just top rope the Climb after you lead it,  or better yet, don't lead it if you don't trust your belayer.  But seriously, I don't think you really understand overhanging routes.

when teaching the grigri you have to specify never grab the rope above the device.  People do this and they prevent the device from locking up.  Then I tell them if you ever get in trouble let go of the lever.  Its too much to expect them to figure out.  Then I always climb up a few feet and have them lower me down for practice.  I'm quite a good teacher when my life is on the line.

ton wrote:

not possible.  factor 2 falls didn't exist before GriGri's

Yep. And car accidents didn't exist before seat belts