Bugaboo road condition beta / Carpool


Original Post
Josh Kornish · · tufaclimbing.com · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 245

Hey y'all,

Looking to get up into this Bugs this next week.  Curious if the road is 'doable' in a Prius?

Also, I'll be driving up from Missoula and I'd be happy to offer a ride.  I can take up to three passengers + gear in my truck.  I'll be meeting my partner there and staying 7-10 days.

Any other key beta is much appreciated!

Cheers,

Josh

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 615

Josh, the road is doable with a Prius, but be ready to take it very slow.  The road isn't bad, but you'll be moving at a snail's pace in a few spots.  The mini-guide available at highcol.ca has a good page on the road, so getting lost is not an issue. 

Additional beta, gleaned from experience:

The approach isn't bad at all.

Stay at Applebee unless the B-S Col is out of shape.  Then, it's a toss up between Kain Hut and Applebee.

Bring an emergency bivy bag - the SOL ones are only 3.5oz and I ended up using mine.  It gets warm during the day, but it's still pretty damn cold at night if you have to bivy.

Don't bother with tent stakes if you are staying at Applebee. All of the campsites are on rock, so there is no dirt for stakes.  Instead, bring extra cord (I brought some paracord that I had laying around) so that you can use the rocks strewn around camp as anchorage.  Make sure you REALLY secure your tent - two tents blew away completely while I was there! Finally, bring a beefy tent if you have one.  My tent poles are badly bent from the winds that whip through that area - this is a common theme at Applebee campground.

Bring booze and good food.  You can make resupply trip (down to your car and back to camp) in about 5 hours on a rest day.  

The rappels on B-S Col are on climber's left.

Nobody was filtering the water from the spigot at Applebee, including me.  I never got sick - your mileage may vary! I'd leave the filter at home but bring aquatabs just in case.

And finally... The TUFA Mochila is practically purpose built for climbing in the Bugs!

Have a blast man, I can't wait to hear about your trip!

 

Josh Kornish · · tufaclimbing.com · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 245

Thank you for the comprehensive beta, Nick, that is all super helpful!

Can't wait to finally lay my eyes on this place, it's been a dream for a while and your adventures there have me stoked! :D

Cheers,

Josh

Jennifer L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 85

Yeah, what Nick says! :) 

I was there last week, and I would suspect that the BS Col is still in. You can check on conditions here: https://www.mountainconditions.com/reports/bugaboos-conditions-0.

Here's a photo of the col from last week: 

Have fun!

Josh Kornish · · tufaclimbing.com · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 245

Thank you, Jennifer!  So psyched! 

Josh Kornish · · tufaclimbing.com · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 245

Still open to ridesharing either way, to and from Missoula.

May just chief it up in the Prius.  If a few others join I have access to a truck.

*partner just tweaked his back on "Boogie Till you Poop", flexible with dates through the next week.

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 465

In my humble opinion it is worth the $25? a night (join the AAC) to stay in the Kain hut and have a stove and running water at your disposal.  The only downside is it puts an additional 15 minutes on to your approach.    

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 615
Brian wrote:

In my humble opinion it is worth the $25? a night (join the AAC) to stay in the Kain hut and have a stove and running water at your disposal.  The only downside is it puts an additional 15 minutes on to your approach.    

It is definitely more plush.  That said, Applebee has running water too.  The thing that made me prefer Applebee is the scene - it's a great place to hang out, trade beta, and trade stories with climbers from all over the world.  

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 465
Nick Sweeney wrote:

It is definitely more plush.  That said, Applebee has running water too.  The thing that made me prefer Applebee is the scene - it's a great place to hang out, trade beta, and trade stories with climbers from all over the world.  

Not trying to play one-upmanship because I really don't care where anyone stays and I don't own shares in the ACC :-) but ditto for the hut.  When I was there in July 2007 Fred Becky showed up.  I believe he was in his 80s at the time.  

Alex Jacques · · Burlington, CT · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 255

Hey Josh, Nick had some great tips, I was just there last week and the weather is spectacular. A couple additional tips:

- Take 0.5L water for the approach, there is running water at multiple points to refill, and weight is a major factor on the approach, it is steep.

- We hiked up at night and the temp was perfect, took 2.5hrs to kain and another 45 to top of Applebee 

- Strong plug for staying at Applebee, awesome scene, shorter approaches, totally beautiful

- Climb in approach shoes on anything under 5.7, your toes will thank you

- Axe and crampons for the col is strongly recommended. No need to rope up for the col but beyond that use discretion, I'll leave that up to you.

- If you're going up the col after 10am it's gonna be sloggy, but doable, stay sharp with climbers above for rock fall.

- Strongly recommend double ropes for rappels and and for some of the climbing. We used a single double for the easy stuff that we simuled and it was perfect.

- Have a blast dude, it's a magical place up there!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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