First time climbing in Tahoe


Original Post
Ming · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 490

Hi guys,

So it'll be my first time climbing in the Tahoe area - what are the new "must do's" in the Tahoe area?    And would anyone want to meet up Aug 16-23rd?    We all know about Lover's Leap and such, but I see that many, many new routes had been put up in the past 10 or so years.  Sport up to 12 a/b, trad up to mid 10s - comfy up to 5.9 multipitch.   Climb mostly at Red Rocks and New England granite.   


Matt Kuehl · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,540

I was just up there for my first visit so feel I'll add my 2 cents, but I am sure many could chime in.  The whole week was great, but felt a bit hot/humid so shade was a must.  The Leap is great fun, but get an early start to minimize other parties.  Corrugated Corner is not to be missed if in the area, Haystack was also classic and climbs fast.  The routes felt harder than the grade (specifically Traveler buttress) but this didn't come as a big surprise.  We also climbed up North by Donner Lake and the Snowshed wall was great climbing and has some harder options too. Just don't go on the weekend unless you like crowds or need a partner etc. Many of the crags seemed to get morning/afternoon sun so options were limited in the shade but there is always the lake to jump in.  Eagle Lake area seemed really excellent and had some good shaded options although we didn't actually do any climbing there.  Sorry that none of this info is really "new" but there is just so much good rock. Hope you have a fun time.

M. Morley · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 6,565
phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 300

If you've never been there before, how would the new must dos be any different than the old must dos?  The list above is a great one but it doesn't include the excellent sport climbs at Space Wall and Star Wall. At your range of up to 12a/b, you will find some excellent stuff there. 

Ming · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 490

As it stands right now it looks like I'll be climbing on the weekend, so something a little off the beaten track would be nice - more climbing, less waiting.   6 weeks ago I did Whitney-Gilman and it was 4 hours of waiting for 5 hours of climbing - people behind us bailed and I took a nice nap - any day I'm outside is a good one - but would like to maximize my climbing at Tahoe as I'm not out west much.   I got a partner for the weekend of the 19-20th, would love to hop on a classic on the weekdays if possible  happy to belay and buy beer.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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