Two Ropes Needed to Rap Off Classic Easy Multipitch in Yosemite?


Original Post
Justin Meyer · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2012 · Points: 26

I'm going to be in Yosemite for a week in September and I'm planning to climb some easy, classic multipitch. I don't have specific routes in mind and I'd like to leave it open so there is more flexibility if routes are busy. In general, do I need two ropes to rap off of routes there?

I ask because I don't own a second rope and because it's hard enough to fit everything on the plane without adding another rope. I have a 70m.

In case it is relevant, I climbed in Yosemite a few years ago: Sunnyside Bench, Zee Tree, The Grack, After Six. I'd like to do some similar routes. On that trip we had two ropes so I wasn't paying attention to whether one rope would have worked. Some of these were walk offs anyway.

Mitch Alexander · · SLO, CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

You can get by on most climbs with a single rope, especially if it's 70m. The Grack can be rappelled with one 70m for example. 

The Five Open Books area is walk offs, along with Manure Pile Buttress. Even longer climbs like East Buttress of Middle Cathedral only need one rope for the descent. 

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 115

As a broad generality, yes, for most of the older easy routes that you rap off of, you need two ropes. I don't know this for a fact but my guess would be that since most of these routes were done when 50 meter ropes were cutting edge, and because if you were actually hand drilling for a rap station, you tried to go as far as you could before setting the anchor. 50 meters is 164 feet.  

But there are many multi-pitch routes in the Valley and the Meadows that go to the top of formations.  The bigger issue in both those locations is finding long multipitch in the 5.6-5.7 range you are describing. If you bump it up to 5.8 your potential route number increases dramatically. 

John Vanek · · Gardnerville, NV · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

If you want LOTS of rappelling, you can rap off Royal Arches -which is THE classic moderate multi-pitch in the valley. But be prepared for mostly hanging rap stations. This is serious rapping: know your technique, tie the ends of your ropes so you can't rap off, enjoy the exposure, and move slowly as you need to find the bolted stations. Two 60m rope will do it. 

Trevor. · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 741
John Vanek wrote:

If you want LOTS of rappelling, you can rap off Royal Arches -which is THE classic moderate multi-pitch in the valley. But be prepared for mostly hanging rap stations. This is serious rapping: know your technique, tie the ends of your ropes so you can't rap off, enjoy the exposure, and move slowly as you need to find the bolted stations. Two 60m rope will do it. 

You can rap off Royal Arches with ONE 70M

Lou Cerutti · · Carlsbad, California · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 129

Only climb Royal arches if you enjoy rappelling MORE than climbing though..

RyanO · · sunshine · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 125

woot

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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