Climb suggestions for the High Sierra


Original Post
Emmerson · · Portland OR · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 15

A friend and I are planning a trip to the High Sierra in the first week-or-so of September.  After a long season of projecting in the PNW, I am exited to take a short break from the tendon-jarring thuggery that is sport climbing and spend some time getting high on Californian granite. We have both started training for the trip by climbing as much local trad as possible and are both learning and practicing self rescue and other technical skills. That being said, we are not total gumbies and have both climbed a good bit of trad and have experience climbing multipitch routes, building anchors etc. I'm posting this to gather climb suggestions for some long and easy/moderate trad climbs (5.8-5.9) that take good gear, have a safe descent and would take about one full day to complete. Hiking in, camping and climbing in the morning would be nice aswell. We also plan on spending a few days cragging when we first arrive to acclimate to climbing on granite, so I'd love suggestions for that too. We don't have exact location plans yet so any suggestions are welcome! Thanks in advance!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Ney Grant · · Pollock Pines, CA · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 1,005

Peter Croft's book, "The Good, the Great and the Awesome" would be a good guide to have.  North ridge of Lone Pine Peak, North ridge linkup on North Peak then Mt. Conness, SW Ridge of Mt. Conness, Fishhook Arete on Mt. Russell, North Ridge (I think, its the 5.8 one) of Bear Creek Spire. Charlotte dome if you can get permit and can bivy. These are all really good.

Mike Mellenthin · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 70

Supertopo book is all you need and more. I don't have the new edition of the Croft book, but I do have the old one. I love his writing and it's maybe my favorite guidebook for that reason alone, but ST will do you better for beta.

Ney mentions some more obvious classics, but the North Buttress on Mt. Goode is 5.9, has great climbing, and has maybe the best descent in all of the Sierra.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/north-buttress/105805914

For cragging check out Pine Creek and (if you don't mind a bit of a hike) Patricia Bowl. Owens will probably be hot still.

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 516

+1 Bear Creek Spire. Beautiful mountain, in one of the most beautiful parts of the High Sierra. Does not get better than that!

Steve G · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

Thinking about other classic areas not listed above - Charlotte's Dome (2-3 days), Crystal Crag and Temple Crag. Don't forget about Tuolumne Meadows as well!

Colin Sander Secret Yinzer · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 15

a prime time to be visiting the best rock climbing range in the world : ) 

Aside from everything in the McNamara book, this 100 best list (by area) is a good place to help scheme & max your value. 

http://www.markpthomas.com/mountaineering/lists/california-classics/100-best-climbs-in-the-high-sierra-moynier-fiddler

Also I agree with Steve, the meadows is something not to be missed. maybe combine with hulk if you choose to be more on the north end of things.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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