LOST: BD C4 #4 & #6


Original Post
Paul Hutton · · Dirtbaggin' western US · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 701

My partner refused to follow my lead through The Narrows on Sentinel in Yosemite Valley, so he jumared around on the outside, resulting in lost cams that may still be on the inside. They're big cams, so that means a bigger reward to whomever recovers and returns. 

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 6

??? After your partner jumared to the belay, why didn't you lower down to get cams back??

Squeak · · Perth West OZ · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 23
Paul Hutton wrote:

My partner refused to follow my lead through The Narrows on Sentinel in Yosemite Valley, so he jumared around on the outside, resulting in lost cams that may still be on the inside. They're big cams, so that means a bigger reward to whomever recovers and returns. 

When you say "refused" do you mean they said "screw you Im not doing that" or that they were unable to follow, due to skill, fear,  strength etc....

Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,135

Sounds like the partner owes you two new cams.

Fritz N. · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 110

SMDH. Sounds like a bad blind date. 

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,420

Not familiar with the route- so I don't know if you're aiding or hauling or what.  But, if he's jumaring the lead line, then wouldn't he HAVE to pass and unclip from the pieces?  Did he just unclip and say fuck it and not clean them?  Just trying to understand how this happened.  Did he jumar the haul line?  Either way, if my follower failed to clean gear, like flat out refused, two things would have happened:  A) He comes off my partner list permanently, and B) I go back down and retrieve my gear.  That's over $200 in just 2 pieces assuming you paid retail or close to it.  

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 6
Jake Jones wrote:

Not familiar with the route- so I don't know if you're aiding or hauling or what.  But, if he's jumaring the lead line, then wouldn't he HAVE to pass and unclip from the pieces?  Did he just unclip and say fuck it and not clean them?  Just trying to understand how this happened.  Did he jumar the haul line?  Either way, if my follower failed to clean gear, like flat out refused, two things would have happened:  A) He comes off my partner list permanently, and B) I go back down and retrieve my gear.  That's over $200 in just 2 pieces assuming you paid retail or close to it.  

I think the whole thing is a troll...

EDIT- I was wrong, not a troll. updated description of events below

Abram Herman · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

In responding to this thread, I will call upon a quote from the illustrious Paul Hutton himself: "The mountains are harsh, too. Prepare for a beating when you thrust yourself into wild terrain. Expecting everything to be nice [and getting big expensive cams back when you're too lazy to lower and retrieve them yourself] isn't realistic. "

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,610

Really?

Squeak · · Perth West OZ · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 23
Allen Sanderson wrote:

Sounds like the partner owes you two new cams.

Not to me it doesn't

Adam Orton · · Moore · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

Sounds like your partner owes you several racks of beer. 

Squeak · · Perth West OZ · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 23
Adam Orton wrote:

Sounds like your partner owes you several racks of beer. 

Why?

To me it sounds like the OP was in to much of a hurry and didnt bother going down to retrieve his gear.  Unless the follower said Screw you "I refuse" to clean them (which doesn't seem to make any sense anyway)

Adam Orton · · Moore · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0
Squeak wrote:

Why?

To me it sounds like the OP was in to much of a hurry and didnt bother going down to retrieve his gear.  Unless the follower said Screw you "I refuse" to clean them (which doesn't seem to make any sense anyway)

Then split a bottle of jack with your partner and laugh about it. 

Paul Hutton · · Dirtbaggin' western US · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 701

No one in here has climbed Steck-Salathé on sentinel in Yosemite? There's a squeeze section that clamps down on your skull and torso. My partner was claustrophobic, so he took the option of jugging my fixed line on the outside of the chimney. He lost a number 6, I lost the 4.

Paul Hutton · · Dirtbaggin' western US · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 701
mpech wrote:

??? After your partner jumared to the belay, why didn't you lower down to get cams back??

 If you saw what I climbed through, you wouldn't want to either. And we were losing daylight. 

Paul Hutton · · Dirtbaggin' western US · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 701
Adam Orton wrote:

Then split a bottle of jack with your partner and laugh about it. 

We used Vodka on half Dome for 3 nights following this. 

Paul Hutton · · Dirtbaggin' western US · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 701
Adam Orton wrote:

Sounds like your partner owes you several racks of beer. 

 He bought all the consumables while we were in the valley for over a week. He's a doctor. I'm dirtbagging. 

Paul Hutton · · Dirtbaggin' western US · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 701
Abram Herman wrote:

In responding to this thread, I will call upon a quote from the illustrious Paul Hutton himself: "The mountains are harsh, too. Prepare for a beating when you thrust yourself into wild terrain. Expecting everything to be nice [and getting big expensive cams back when you're too lazy to lower and retrieve them yourself] isn't realistic. "

 I'm lucky to still have my knees and elbows after leading that pitch. 

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 6
Paul Hutton wrote:

No one in here has climbed Steck-Salathé on sentinel in Yosemite? There's a squeeze section that clamps down on your skull and torso. My partner was claustrophobic, so he took the option of jugging my fixed line on the outside of the chimney. He lost a number 6, I lost the 4.

I've done the steck salathe, so trying to scare me about how awful the narrows is isn't going to work...

It's a 90 foot pitch, max. Pretty easy to lower back in, grab cam, then climb back up/swing out and jumar/Batman up rope/etc... 

One final thing-- some gear beta- biggest piece needed for steck salathe is a #4...

Paul Hutton · · Dirtbaggin' western US · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 701
mpech wrote:

I've done the steck salathe, so trying to scare me about how awful the narrows is isn't going to work...

It's a 90 foot pitch, max. Pretty easy to lower back in, grab cam, then climb back up/swing out and jumar/Batman up rope/etc... 

One final thing-- some gear beta- biggest piece needed for steck salathe is a #4...

Isn't going to work? To what effect? Trying to get you to retrieve my gear? Trying to become an idol to you? You think I give a damn? Fuckin tool. A #5 saved my partner's ass twice when he took lead falls in two of the chimney pitches. You take what you want. 

When Salathé was pioneering the FA, he aided around the Narrows pitch, aka "claustrohorror" to some people. The #6 was bomber for protecting the final moves to the ledge on that pitch. When my partner put weight on my lead line to try to jumar my lead, the rope pulled the #6 back inside the chimney, the cam became unclipped, and it fell down outta sight. He never saw the cam fall down to the bottom of the pitch, so it might be wedged in somewhere over the belay station. I placed the #4 somewhere around the crux of the squeeze, where he couldn't get to. 

I really don't need critique on my climbing. That route has some scary climbing on it, just during the day. It was starting to get dark on us, with 4 or so more pitches above us, no bivy gear, headlamps that can fall off, fail, break. We were trying to avoid an epic on this big wall climb. 

OzarkKing · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 5

because relevance!:  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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