Crack Climbing At RRG


Original Post
Waiwai Kim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

I'm new to cracking climbing and trad climbing, and I'd like to get more experience in jamming. I've come across a route called Crack Attack (5.9+) and it looks amazing! I don't have enough gear or skill sets to lead this route. Is there any way I can access the route from the top and set up a TR anchor on the two bolt anchors? 

ColeT · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

Nope, go to pistol ridge. Easy top access to set up a variety of TRs on some decent cracks

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

Convince a stronger climber to rope gun for you.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 763

French free.

sherb · · Loveland, Ohio & Wheat Ridg... · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

I had both of the above done. My small hands were a terrible size for it.

Matt Thomsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 3

Yes. I am sure you could set up a top rope by rapping in. It may not be the most pleasant task, but it will be doable. All the cliffs in KY have trees on top, to rap from. Have fun. It is a great route.

Waiwai Kim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0
Matt Thomsen wrote:

Yes. I am sure you could set up a top rope by rapping in. It may not be the most pleasant task, but it will be doable. All the cliffs in KY have trees on top, to rap from. Have fun. It is a great route.

Any beta on how to get to the top of the cliffs ? Is there an easy walk-up ? 

travispowell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

I'd recommend finding someone to teach you. Having a mentor is an important way to learn common mistakes and tricks to make your life easier. Plus, top access can be hit or miss in the Red. I recommend going to LEF in Lexington and asking around. Folks there are friendly, and the staff can definitely point you to someone who wouldn't mind showing a new climber the tricks of the trade. Tell them Travis sent you. They'll show you the goods.

Troy Shellhamer · · Louisville, KY · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 23

I just climbed Walk the Line, 5.9 in Muir Valley last weekend. It's got quality hand jams and it's a fun route. It starts pumpy and overhung with 2 bolts, then you traverse to the crack system. The Crack system is like 5.8ish and the pumpy start that's bolt protected is 5.9+.

There is also a good 5.8 next to it called indecision that's pretty fun, but doesn't have true hand jams.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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