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Gunks Routes


Original Post
Chris D · · Frederick, MD · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

Looking for some techy slab routes in the Gunks that aren't crazy sketchy for pro placement (I know this may complicate things). I'm open to anything ranging to mid 5.11's. If anyone has some favorite climbs that meet this general description I'd love to hear them.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0

Good challenge!  5.10/5.11; roof(s) not the crux, techy slab, and not R rated.  Of the relatively little I know, for 5.10- and above, maybe Never, Never Land and P1 of Scary Area.  P1 of SA is really good.  I only TR'ed it but was with someone who lead it.  At that time, it was rated .11.  The consensus here seems to be .11+.  

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,745

The pro is certainly an issue.  Gunks "slab" really only gets hard when it gets "tight" (featureless). Which generally means no gear. Sorry I don't have a lot of good recommendations for you; the direct variation on Turdland comes to mind.

C Banks · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2006 · Points: 110
S. Neoh wrote:

Good challenge!  5.10/5.11; roof(s) not the crux, techy slab, and not R rated.  Of the relatively little I know, for 5.10- and above, maybe Never, Never Land and P1 of Scary Area.  P1 of SA is really good.  I only TR'ed it but was with someone who lead it.  At that time, it was rated .11.  The consensus here seems to be .11+.  

I was also going to suggest Never Never Land.

Chris D · · Frederick, MD · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0
Gunkiemike wrote:

The pro is certainly an issue.  Gunks "slab" really only gets hard when it gets "tight" (featureless). Which generally means no gear. Sorry I don't have a lot of good recommendations for you; the direct variation on Turdland comes to mind.

With that said, just some harder slab routes regardless of pro rating?

Daniel Affsprung · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 65

The Stand, On any monday (might be R) Maybe Golden Showers.

chris_vultaggio · · The Gunks · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 480

few more that come close, mix of slab/face: On Any Monday, J'accuse, Coronary, Jacob's Ladder, higher stannard, still crazy, stirrup trouble, p1 Enduro man, honky tonk woman

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Frustration Syndrome

Falled on Account of Strain, P1

Co-Ex? - arguable if this meets the "slab route" definition

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0

If the OP is open to R rated techy face climbs in the 5.9/5.10 range, that opens up more possibilities, altho not without risk.  I found both Honky Tonk Woman and Shitface, both at The Nears very good, albeit on TR.  Also great on TR at The Nears are To Be or Not To Be (led Farewell to setup) and Bird Brain (small overhang is hard but has sustained face climbing too, lead Birdland to setup).  Both R rated or even X for lead.

Routes, less severe and in the 5.8 and 5.9 range which I found enjoyable to lead and quite techy are Higher Stannard, Sante, Pas de Deux, just to name a few.

Good luck and good hunting.  :)

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,745

Hit Sente and the 10 to its right (Yentl?).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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