Preferred two-rope rap system?


Original Post
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 282

I think the answer to this question is probably "personal preference", but here goes.

I'm going on a trip that's going to involve some single pitch sport as well as some multi pitch sport routes requiring 2 ropes for descent.  This is a fairly common situation for me.

How we did it last year was I brought my 9.5 70 and an oldish 9mm 60m half rope. (Yes, we always tied knots in the ends). This worked ok on the fairly easy multi pitch sport routes, but the weight of the 9 as a tag line got kind of annoying on a different trip, to Red Rock, where the routes we were on were a little steeper and harder. So I'm wondering, do people recommend

1) keep the single-half rope combo I'm currently using, because it only requires traveling with two ropes and I don't have to buy anything

2) buy a pair of 8mm dual rated half/twin ropes and use one setup for the sport climbing and one for the multi pitch

2b) just bring the twins and use them for the single pitch too (sounds pretty clunky)

3) just buy one of the lighter 8mm ropes above to replace my current 9mm

4) get an even thinner static line for a pull cord (this looks annoying to me for multiple reasons)

5) or something else

Ok, enlighten me!

Zachary Winters · · Mazama, Washington · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 25

All those options look decent to me, and yep it is indeed personal preference. My personal preference would be twins/halfs for multi, and single with a small ~5mm tag for too-long sport. Are the single pitch sport routes >40m? Because an 80m single would be nicer if it's long enough. My second choice would be one single and tag a skinny half for both.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 282
Zachary Winters wrote:

All those options look decent to me, and yep it is indeed personal preference. My personal preference would be twins/halfs for multi, and single with a small ~5mm tag for too-long sport. Are the single pitch sport routes >40m? Because an 80m single would be nicer if it's long enough. My second choice would be one single and tag a skinny half for both.

Sub 8mm taglines seem kind of uncomfortable (only did it once I think)to pull because they're so thin. Do you normally bring gloves for that or just deal?

David Hous · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 175

Here's my decision process: are you driving? If so bring your 9.5 x 70 and two twins for the multi pitch. If you're going to carry all your stuff I'd bring the 9.5 plus one very skinny line if the single pitch stuff is your priority or twins if the long routes are the main reason you're going. 

The one thing I would avoid is the second trailing a rope on multi pitch - I hate that.

BTW, where are you headed?

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 282
David Hous wrote:

Here's my decision process: are you driving? If so bring your 9.5 x 70 and two twins for the multi pitch. If you're going to carry all your stuff I'd bring the 9.5 plus one very skinny line if the single pitch stuff is your priority or twins if the long routes are the main reason you're going. 

The one thing I would avoid is the second trailing a rope on multi pitch - I hate that.

BTW, where are you headed?

This trip is to the southern French Alps (wahoo!), so we're flying and weight is definitely an issue. That's true of many other trips I take as well. Inconveniently it'll be a fairly even split between roadside single pitch (mostly 20 to 30 meter) and the multi pitch. The main multi (Ailefroide)place often has completely independent rap routes so even though it's typical sport pitch lengths the full length raps tend to be mandatory.

Andrew Steavpack · · Castle Pines, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Bentgate Mountaineering in Golden has the Beal 8.5mm triple rated ropes (forget model name but know it's single, half and twin rated) for $150 if you aren't from CO I'm sure they could ship if you call

JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

I would choose option 1 because I'm cheap.

Eli · · Lives in a truck · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,486

I have a 65m 7mm tag line that I have a love hate relationship with. It's mostly referred to as "the snagline". The tangleline is also a common name for it. it gets the job done and weighs about 4 pounds.

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 145
Andrew Steavpack wrote:

Bentgate Mountaineering in Golden has the Beal 8.5mm triple rated ropes (forget model name but know it's single, half and twin rated) for $150 if you aren't from CO I'm sure they could ship if you call

That seems to be a good rope, if you mean the Beal Opera. I climbed on one it didn't feel scary thin. It has Unicore too.

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 145
Optimistic wrote:

Sub 8mm taglines seem kind of uncomfortable (only did it once I think)to pull because they're so thin. Do you normally bring gloves for that or just deal?

I have a 5.5 and I like to use my micro traxion as a rope grab to pull it. I also like to use the micro to haul a small pack on the 5.5 when climbing challenging multipitch, that way neither the leader or follower has to climb with a pack. This tactic works best for me on steep clean walls

Andrew Steavpack · · Castle Pines, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0
Shelton Hatfield wrote:

That seems to be a good rope, if you mean the Beal Opera. I climbed on one it didn't feel scary thin. It has Unicore too.

That would be it was way marked down

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply