DEATH BLOCKS ON CONSOLATION ON TAHQUITZ!!!!


Original Post
Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,175

Sorry for the all caps but these blocks deserve another warning. I had heard of them from the recent rock fall and injury but hadn't seen them until Saturday. At the end of the main corner system there's about 6 big blocks that are ready to roll. The usual route goes right of them but the direct finish would go directly through them. It is possible to climb around them to the left but I wouldn't even get your rope near them. 

As usual this whole section of the mountain is a nightmare, from Whodunit to White Maiden. Personally I don't climb under anyone on any of those routes.

Enjoy!

x15x15 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 165

Tradiban is correct. But I remember dealing with that shit for at least 2 decades... at least!!! That stuff can explode tomorrow... or maybe next year, or...

Be careful, don't climb under anyone, climb at your own risk, be prepared to die... 

This ain't Disneyland folks!

corpse · · jtree area · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 5
x15x15 wrote:

This ain't Disneyland folks!

but I got a Flash Pass!

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,175
x15x15 wrote:

Tradiban is correct. But I remember dealing with that shit for at least 2 decades... at least!!! That stuff can explode tomorrow... or maybe next year, or...

Be careful, don't climb under anyone, climb at your own risk, be prepared to die... 

This ain't Disneyland folks!

I usually just chalk it up to the usual but these blocks we're like playing Jenga with giant knifes.

Who can come up with the best analogy for a stack of death blocks????

x15x15 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 165

weebles wobble but don't fall down... usually...

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

Sounds like it is time for some LOCALS to get up their mid-week, get to the top of the loose stuff, make sure nobody is at the base and trundle that shit... if you can. Sometimes, despite how it looks, you cant get them to budge no matter how hard you try. 

BITD... we would sweep all the rubble one finds at the top of the Weeping Wall with a big ass broom, then we could hang out at the base without dodging stones. 

I hardly ever go to T&S anymore who are the LOCALS?  

X15X15?



Tim Lutz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.

DannyJ · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 70

Can confirm what Tradiban is saying, climbed Consolation with him on Saturday. The rockfall looks recent and it doesn't look like it would take much to dislodge it further. Very smart idea not to climb under anyone over there.

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70
Tim Lutz wrote:

Tradiban needs a SAFE SPACE!

how about SPORT CLIMBING?!

Idiot.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,175
Guy Keesee wrote:

Sounds like it is time for some LOCALS to get up their mid-week, get to the top of the loose stuff, make sure nobody is at the base and trundle that shit... if you can. Sometimes, despite how it looks, you cant get them to budge no matter how hard you try. 

BITD... we would sweep all the rubble one finds at the top of the Weeping Wall with a big ass broom, then we could hang out at the base without dodging stones. 

I hardly ever go to T&S anymore who are the LOCALS?  

X15X15?



This crossed my mind but this particular bundle is so big it would probably smash a few bolts along the way.

David Kerkeslager · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 45
Tradiban wrote:

This crossed my mind but this particular bundle is so big it would probably smash a few bolts along the way.

I've no skin in the game because I've no plans to go to Tahquitz, but my outside perspective here is that it's safer to have a climb with a few smashed bolts than a fully bolted climb with giant loose rocks above it.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,175
David Kerkeslager wrote:

I've no skin in the game because I've no plans to go to Tahquitz, but my outside perspective here is that it's safer to have a climb with a few smashed bolts than a fully bolted climb with giant loose rocks above it.

I hear ya David but on this mountain, there's so much loose stuff that starting a trundling trend would start something that would never end.

Dylan B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 938
Tradiban wrote:

I hear ya David but on this mountain, there's so much loose stuff that starting a trundling trend would start something that would never end.

Sounds like a gem.

I'm meeting Ian in Squamish next weekend. Want to come, Nick?

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10
Tradiban wrote:

This crossed my mind but this particular bundle is so big it would probably smash a few bolts along the way.

Lol. That's a good reason not to trundle....(eye roll)

Lets see, smash bolts? Or kill people? (all hypotheticals)

Its been a couple decades, but it seems like those have always been there? Just post someone in the parking lot on a Tuesday morning, get up there at 5am and trundle. I am a far cry from being local, but if they are precarious as you say, hook the community up. It's not like TQ is an off the eaten path area.

x15x15 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 165

It will require planning. A team effort. Those blocks are big. There will be damage when they go. How much, who knows. Those blocks could be gone, but other dangers will be left in their wake, maybe creating even worse conditions. That whole area is loose block zone. Also, shoving them off may not be so easy peasy lemon squeazy... gonna need more than a broom.

I would never be comfortable trundling anything off Tahquitz, at anytime. There will need to be a ground crew to make sure no one is in the vicinity. Rocks are going to go flying on impact and there is a small chance that some unsuspecting human will be walking around in the area at all hours.

Im not interested in trundling, but if anyone is planning a trundle, post up, let people know. Either they can help, or stay the heck away. 

And have a lookout crew below...

Albert Kernberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

Those blocks are HUGE. 

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,175
BigNobody wrote:

Lol. That's a good reason not to trundle....(eye roll)

Lets see, smash bolts? Or kill people? (all hypotheticals)

Its been a couple decades, but it seems like those have always been there? Just post someone in the parking lot on a Tuesday morning, get up there at 5am and trundle. I am a far cry from being local, but if they are precarious as you say, hook the community up. It's not like TQ is an off the eaten path area.

X15 nailed why trundling is a bad idea. I would say the likely hood of creating even worse conditions is high.

BigNobody · · all over, mostly Utah · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10
x15x15 wrote:

It will require planning. A team effort. Those blocks are big. There will be damage when they go. How much, who knows. Those blocks could be gone, but other dangers will be left in their wake, maybe creating even worse conditions. That whole area is loose block zone. Also, shoving them off may not be so easy peasy lemon squeazy... gonna need more than a broom.

I would never be comfortable trundling anything off Tahquitz, at anytime. There will need to be a ground crew to make sure no one is in the vicinity. Rocks are going to go flying on impact and there is a small chance that some unsuspecting human will be walking around in the area at all hours.

Im not interested in trundling, but if anyone is planning a trundle, post up, let people know. Either they can help, or stay the heck away. 

And have a lookout crew below...

Dooms Day prediction! Sounds like the easy way out. 

x15x15 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 165
BigNobody wrote:

Dooms Day prediction! Sounds like the easy way out. 

Not really BigNobody... I'm flat out not interested!!11!! And when those blocks go, there will be damage. But since your nobody with vast amounts of knowledge and know-how, why don't you come and clean up the rock. Make it safe for us... please...

Ronald B · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Given today's horrific incident, I wonder if there is any renewed interest in having an organized trundle as people are describing above? I am not qualified to organize such a thing and I don't know what permission would be required, but with some advance notice I could be available mid-week to help out if there was an organized group doing that. 

I'm guessing there are a lot of people who would be willing to help out if it would potentially save future lives, the main thing we're missing right now is somebody qualified to lead and organize the effort in a safe way. Maybe instead of the climbing community, it might have to be the local search and rescue organizations that take leadership here?

pigsflyinsd · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 430

Ronald,

I'm only one voice but I would be against it. I think I'm in the same boat as Tradiban and x15. I'm certainly against some random climbers with good intentions but not qualified to do the job. 

Depending on how high up, and the location of these "death" blocks, knocking them off could create further problems. A car sized block flying 500-600 feet down the face is going to do a lot of damage and potentially make other areas that were "secure" now dangerous.  Are you having someone spot the fall from a safe distance (possible?), or have people reclimb the entire face to ensure that new problems haven't been created?

There are accidents that cannot be prevented but I also believe that climber education and caution could significantly cut down on the number of incidents. In my opinion Tahquitz isn't any more dangerous than routes in the Sierra. We wouldn't advocate trundling blocks off any of the routes on Temple Crag or Whitney's east face would we?  If anything they're far more loose and dangerous than Tahquitz. My $.02

Condolences to the party today and their loved ones. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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