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Royal Arches conditions


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Cody Hays · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Looking to climb Royal Arches in a few days and wondering if there is currently a fixed rope for the traverse pitch?

Kevin DeWeese 1 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

I would be very surprised if the penji rope is not there (it's a burly static line attached to bolts) but granted, I haven't been up the route yet this year. 

Bob Johnson · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 98

It was there when I did the route the first week in June. It looked like it was in pretty good shape.

Lou Cerutti · · Carlsbad, California · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 217

Climbed it last week. It's there. 

Cody Hays · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

Perfect thank you!

Frank LaForge · · Incline Village, NV · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 20

Question: I'm planning to climb Royal Arches in the next few days (probably tomorrow). My partner and I have 70m rope and 60m rope and were planning to climb on the 70m rope. Should we haul the 9.8 60m rope up so that we can double-rope the rappels? Or should we save weight (and the energy of pulling double-ropes through each rappel) and leave the 60m rope behind?

I've looked through Super Topo and other resources and haven't found a solid answer. Thanks in advance!

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 90

Frank, personally I'd leave the 70 behind and take the 60. I don't recall any reason a 70 would be significantly better up there. 

Cory Furrow · · Blacksburg, VA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25

I was able to rappel and skip a few rap stations with 2 70m ropes.  On a few occasions, the 70m ropes barely made it to the belay station (when skipping stations).  Definitely, close the system and use auto-blocks just in case.

Frank LaForge · · Incline Village, NV · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 20

Thanks, gents!

Jorge · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 5
Cory Furrow wrote:

I was able to rappel and skip a few rap stations with 2 70m ropes.  On a few occasions, the 70m ropes barely made it to the belay station (when skipping stations).  Definitely, close the system and use auto-blocks just in case.

I did the same with 2 60m  double ropes.  Never had a problem reaching any of the stations.

Frank LaForge · · Incline Village, NV · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 20

We did it with a single 70m rope, which worked out fine. We started late and did all but the first two rappels by headlamp. I wouldn't have felt comfortable skipping rappel stations in such circumstances anyhow.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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