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Coffin Nail direct start?

Original Post
sdrockstar81 · · el cajon, CA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5
  1. Hi All,

I recently did coffin nail into traiter horn (great link-up). But after looking at the coffin nail start in MP I'm not sure I got it right... I started at the obvious (slightly overhung) hand crack in the left of the pic... I felt it was the most direct and cleanest line for coffin nail. However, it felt maybe 5.9 ish, a few strenous move with super solid hands. I figure I can't be the 1st person to take this obvious line. I was hoping someone might be able to help shed some light.

Thanks for your help,

Skylar D.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

My guidebook says to go up the chimney to the right of the crack. And that's the way I've done it.

Edit: The guidebook doesn't actually say "to the right of the crack," but it does say to climb the chimney.

Lou Cerutti · · Carlsbad, California · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 217

Sick FA brah

GDavis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10

Lol Lou

sdrockstar81 · · el cajon, CA · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5

Lol lou. Someones gotta know...

VRP · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 45

I climbed that short left crack last summer simply because it looked fun.  I'm sure plenty of people have as well for that same reason.  Felt on par for other 5.8 at Tahquitz.

kablauch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 20

sdrockstar81, that handcrack is the way I've always started Coffin Nail. Its the section described as: "long second pitch has strenuous hand jamming near the start" as per the route description on MP. Super fun!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Here is a photo from the guidebook. The leftmost climb is Coffin Nail. View full size for (marginal) clarity.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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