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La Sportiva Skwama or Scarpa Instinct VSR?


Original Post
Jesse van der Heijden · · Nijmegen · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

My goal for my next bleau trip is to climb Super prestat 7B+ slab so I want a shoe that is great for smearing/slab climbing. (I'm a indoor climber  for 90% of the time so I also do a lot of steep boulders) What do you guys recommend? 

P.S. I'm not interested in other shoe recommendation's 

Kasper Gram · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Why skwama and instinct ? Its hard to give good advice if you dont tell why you choose those two. 

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 255

maybe check out scarpa furia or drago.

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

Those shoes are very similar, so whichever one fits you better is the better shoe for you.  I like the Skwama myself, and Scarpa shoes generally don't fit me.

Watching a quick youtube of La Super Prestat, it seems more like edging slab than friction slab. Personally I'd want a stiffer shoe.

Nivel Egres · · New York, NY · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 130
Jesse van der Heijden wrote:

My goal for my next bleau trip is to climb Super prestat 7B+ slab so I want a shoe that is great for smearing/slab climbing. (I'm a indoor climber  for 90% of the time so I also do a lot of steep boulders) What do you guys recommend? 

P.S. I'm not interested in other shoe recommendation's 

Have you been on this problem already? It's a crimp/edge problem, except for the weight transfer in the beginning, where your smear-edging on a smaller knob. Pretty scary moves up top, btw, bring spotters and lots of pads :)

Given the choice, you would do better with Instinct VSR (the orange ones). 

Jesse van der Heijden · · Nijmegen · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0
Nivel Egres wrote:

Have you been on this problem already? It's a crimp/edge problem, except for the weight transfer in the beginning, where your smear-edging on a smaller knob. Pretty scary moves up top, btw, bring spotters and lots of pads :)

Given the choice, you would do better with Instinct VSR (the orange ones). 

Thanks for the tip, I have seen the boulder once irl and focused too much on the start I guess, I thought great shoes for smearing would be the best option since one of my friends climbed it on Cobra's   

P.S. I can't reply that much since I'm a new member

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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