Here's the tests showing that a fully contracted cam is generally stronger (for alien-style cams at least).
Trevor
·
Jul 31, 2017
·
Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 830
James Warner wrote:
Some of the pin scars on the opening pitches of The Nose caused me to beeline for offsets as soon as I was down. However, it did seem that even offset cams would still not sit right as most of the pin scars leave no place for the cam's stem to "lie" (be oriented towards the line of fall) like a natural crack would. So, it would almost be better to have something resembling a piton as the shape would have a natural leverage causing it to lever and be bomber. Would "removable pitons" sell?
The pin scars at the bottom of the Nose are no match for Totem cams. They stick very well despite not being oriented in the direction of loading.
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