What's the best resole rubber?


Original Post
Buddy Smith · · GA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 40

About to resole (via Lost Soles unless you have horror stories) my old Boreal Aces. My OLD Aces. I'm not down with the new rubber that's out there and need some opinions on what's the best these days. Lost soles offers Stealth C4, vibram XS Edge, and Stealth ONYXX (+$2). I'm climbing a little of everything here in the south: trad cracks, granite slabs, sandstone, smears, edges, cracks, a mixed bag. Looking for rubber advice, but if you know a resoler that rocks and has better deals I'm certainly curious. Cheers.

pat a · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10

I had a pair of 5.10 Verdons that came with C4 resoled in Onyxx by rock and resole.  I've also got an identical pair with original C4 on them that I was using while they were out being resoled, so I can use 'em back to back right now.  

I've found that it's just as sticky on rock (RRG and Devil's Lake so far, which are at opposite extremes) and in the gym.  The only difference that seems to matter is that it seems like there's less creeping/distoring on really small edges.  Probably especially in hot weather. That last part is kinda important for southern climbers.  The C4 doesn't seem to slide off, but it always feels like it's about to happen.  I've sort of relegated the Onyxx pair to outdoor use and the C4s to indoor use, at least during the summer.

Onyxx definitely seems to hold up over time a bit better, so given there doesn't seem like much performance difference, it's probably a no-brainer to go with it.

Dunno about vibram's stuff.  My Katanas definitely don't seem to offer quite as much security on small features as either type of Stealth rubber, but it's a totally different shoe so who knows.

I may just have drunk the 5.10 rubber kool aid.  

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 253
pat a wrote:

I recently had a pair of 5.10 Verdons that came with C4 resoled in Onyxx.  I've also got an identical pair with original C4 on them that I was using while they were out being resoled, so I can use 'em back to back.  I've found that it's just as sticky on rock (mostly RRG and Devil's Lake which are at opposite extremes) and in the gym.  The big difference is that I feel it creeping/distoring a lot less on small edges especially in hot weather.  That last part is kinda important for southern climbers.  :)

Compared to XS Edge?  My Katanas definitely don't seem to offer quite as much security as my 5.10 shoes, but it's a totally different shoe so who knows.

I think the XS Edge rubber is intended to be stiffer for edging, and is therefore less sticky for smearing. I definitely can tell the difference between the XS Edge on my Katana laces and the XS Grip2 on my Geniuses. I've never climbed on 5.10 rubber, so I can't comment on the comparison there.

peterfogg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

I resoled my Katanas with C4 to see if there was a difference. Compared to my newer, non-resoled Katanas, I find they're significantly softer and much nicer for smearing on relatively smooth granite, whereas the pair with stock XS Edge always seem a little too stiff and hard to be completely comfortable. That being said, the old shoes are a half size bigger and I mostly only use them in the gym and for long routes now (i.e. not many little microedges), and it's possible that the resoling process changed the fit a little.

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0

I've resoled with 5.10 C4, XS Edge, Oynxx, and had two pairs of shoes which came with Grip 2 (never resoled with Grip 2).

Grip 2 is comparable to C4, IMHO.  Both are softer than Edge, so they feel less secure on hot rock.

Edge edges impressively on real rock.  But Edge is not so good on slimey gym holds.  C4 performs best in gyms, IMHO.

I resole mostly with 4mm C4 since I favor feel and stickiness over pure edging power, and I tend to stay away from climbs which bake in the summer sun.

Some resoler offer 5mm sheets of rubber in addition to 4mm.  I like 4 a lot better.

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,470

I resole with C4.  If you're climbing somewhere that chews up rubber really fast I would go with Onyx.  It is a harder compound and will take more abuse, if I climbed in Joshua Tree more I'd use it.  

Not that impressed with Grip 2, I've found it wears fast.  The vibram rubbers are very good, but they don't hit the sticky/durable sweet spot as well as C4 in my opinion. 

bkozak · · Sterling, VA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 70

C4 is a safe bet.  Everyone raves about it and it will be great for pretty much everything.  As mentioned above, onyxx is good if you prefer durability and edging over stickiness.  I had a pair resoled with it and really liked it.  Held up a long time and edged like a champ. 

However, I have to put in my plug for Yosemite Bum.  Resoles are only $30 and their shop time is 2 business days!  They only offer Trax rubber, but I like Trax a lot.  Very sticky and great all around.  They do a great job and have fantastic customer service.

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

Really hard to go wrong with C4.

Cameron Saul · · San Francisco · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 10

I recently decided to try some of the new tech rubber (HF and Mi6 from 5.10) and I have to say, HF is pretty amazing on slab.  I was hiking up some runouts on granite slab with confidence I cannot attribute to skill.  Mi6 is a little too soft for me, but I think it might serve as a crack shoe, might conform better when slotting into a narrow finger crack.  I think they designed it as a bouldering shoe rubber.  

my 2 cents.  Might be worth a try.  Softer rubber though, so I don't know how well it would do in hot weather.  5.10's site has some numbers on their rubber softness/etc. 

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 478

I've had c4, onyxx, grip2, and edge. I have a pair of katanas with the original grip for super hot days and a pair with onyx for normal days. 

The onyxx pair smears slightly better and edges just as well. I prefer them for the alpine where it's never that hot.

i have pythons, skwamas and testarossas with grip. One pair or pythons and skwamas have been Resoled with c4. I feel that grip does slightly better sticking to the lowest friction holds, but doesn't edge quite as well. C4 lasts slightly longer.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

I have not had any issues with C4 in hot weather.  In fact, I tried TC Pros (original Edge rubber) and Anasazi Pinks (C4) on hot Texas granite slab in July, and the Pinks blew the TC Pros out of the water.  I do like the stiffness of Edge for...well, edging, but for everything else it is inferior IMO.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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